Log splitter engine hard to pull.

[Bud in WV]

I haven't worked on small engines in years so I need a memory refresher...can't be that I'm getting old....

I have a 35t log splitter with a B&S 15.5 (whatever THAT means now! Ft Lbs?) engine. I did have to do some "reconstructive" work on it after my son forgot that you need to slow down for turns when you have a high center of gravity & a narrow wheel base but it didn't appear to affect the engine and I've used the splitter for several hours since. The biggest thing was replacing the broken fitting from the hydraulic valve to the cylinder.

It's been getting harder to pull since then. It used to spin right over (hand pull) but it almost broke a bone in my hand yesterday when it kicked back and the pull handle nailed me! Got a *nice* bruise and I normally don't bruise.

Any suggestions on a probable cause for becoming hard to pull? I haven't started taking parts off but I'm wondering if the flywheel key is partially sheared and it's thrown the timing just enough to cause the problem.

It still runs fine but I have noticed a slight difference in the engine tone - like the choke is still partially engaged. I've checked. It isn't.

I hate to just open equipment up without having an idea of what I'm looking for. We did that on routine inspection on turbines but this is on my dime and I don't want to take apart more than I need to!

Thanks for any info!
 

[VernMI]

You probably hit the nail on the head with the flywheel key. Otherwise it could be a malfunctioning compression release.
 

[VernMI]

It could also be the flywheel brake if it has one. Check to see if it rolls over easily with the spark plug removed. If it doesn't then the brake is suspect.
 

[Cienna]

Driving a tractor and towing an implement, like he's driving a competion go-kart? You don't need that kind of help !!
 

[Bud in WV]

Small consolation - he's 39 and rolled his new jet ski the same way. The log splitter cost him a new hitch and a hydraulic fitting.

The jet ski will probably cost him close to $2k to fix. I doubt he's believes he took the turn too fast though....just coincidence that they both rolled in the same turn 3 weeks apart....

Think I'll drag the splitter up to the shop before I start today. Thanks for the info, Guys!
 

[Bud in WV]

Thanks! I'll look - being a splitter, I don't think it has a flywheel brake and it's about a 5 hp engine, I think so hopefully it doesn't have a compression release.
 

[d beatty]

I have a 35 ton with a B&S 15.5 single cylinder engine that I bought new from TSC. Mine has allways pulled through hard from day one and have had it kicked back several times. Your right when it does kick back it rips the cord out of you hand.
 

[JDseller]

Also make sure the rewind cover is not bent. That will make them pull hard if it has the old style rewind. If it hit real hard it could have broken the compression release weight off of the cam or maybe it stuck in the cam gear. A gasket set for the B&S engine is cheap. I would remove the rewind cover and flywheel. If you do not find anything wrong with it then take the crankcase apart. The compression release is a mechanical one and is easy to inspect visually.

Crazy thought. I wonder if the scopes, that you can get to look into a wall or such, would fit down the oil fill port??? Never tried it on a small engine. I have use mine on tractors. Mainly looking into the rear ends and such. Just a thought.

Truthfully I kind of think B&S are a throw away engine anymore. The quality is just not in the league with a good Honda or Kawasaki.
 

[Jack345]

You are right on about it being the engine design, I too have one that really kicks back, its one of the early valve in head models.
 

[El Toro]

Check the woodruff key as the timing may be off some. Hal
PS: I use to use my garden tractor when starting a 10 hp Tecumseh on my splitter. I also used it to start my old Toro rotary mower.

 

[old]

Had that problem on a B/S engine I got in a few days ago and it would not start but sure would kick back and get you. Found the flywheel key had been damaged so that causes the timing to be off just enough to kick back and make it hard to pull over. Replaced the key and all was good
 

[George Marsh]

Bud,
I have a 13 hp honda that is hard to start. Honda says it's an easy start, yea.

I also worked on a vertical shaft briggs 15.5 hp briggs for my termite man. He said it had a bad starter. Come to find out he had a dead battery. Replaced battery, engine was locked up. I removed spark plug and motor spun easily.

The problem was, if the exhaust valve clearance isn't spot on, the motor will have too much compression and the starter won't spin it over.

I adjusted the valves, problem solved.

Check valve clearance. You can find the setting on line.

George
 

[Bud in WV]

Same machine, same supplier. This one always pulled easy and fired of with 1 or 2 pulls. It 'bout rips my fingers off now! Any chance you have a model number for your engine? I've found the series, the cc and the serial but no model number so I can pull up the manual for a schematic.

It's probably not necessary but having a pic is somewhat comforting when you're not real familiar with a motor. Thanks!
 

[Bud in WV]

Good info! I'll file that away in the rat hole but this one is a pull start.
 

[jackinok]

like the others say check the key, but also check the point gap while your in there. for some reason all of mine have gotten harder to pull the last twenty years or so.