OT/Refrigerator compressor clicks, buzzes, clicks

[markiz41]

An 11 year old fridge started acting up. Compressor clicked on, buzzed for 10-15 sec and clicked off. I measured the current draw when it was on and it was a whopping 11 amps! (it's rated for 7amps) So I replace the starter/overload relay, thinking it was faulty - same thing is happening. Checked for continuity between compressor plug prongs and the body - no shorts. Is the compressor toasted? Anything else I can check to make sure? Thanks..
 

[Billy Shafer]

Mine was doing the same thing. Compressor was locked up.
 

[Greenday]

Bad compressor
 

[wisbaker]

Locked rotor condition on your compressor. The first click is the relay to turn it on, it's locked so it draws inrush (11 amps) until the circuit breaker kicks out, 2nd click when the circuit breaker/overload protection cools the cycle starts all over again
 

[GarryinNC]

Have seen a couple that did that over the years that was caused by a bad start capacitor. $10-$15 dollar item. Not all compressors have them though.
 

[Charles (in GA)]

I'll add a 4th to that, locked up compressor, had exact same thing happen to my shop fridge. Tilt it over in the back of the truck and head for the scrap place, go to Lowes or HD and find a scratch and dent model.

Charles
 

[Steve A W]

While it is buzzing, Give the compressor a hit with a hammer.
Sometimes it will un stick the comp.
Might buy You some time.
Good Luck.
Steve A W
 

[markiz41]

Not worth fixin' then? I see these compressors selling for around $300. New fridge will be at least $800. A skid row special will not work here, this is a kitchen unit.
 

[David G]

Could be a bad starting capacitor, otherwise motor is locked up.
 

[George Marsh]

Mark,
Could be anything from a bad compressor, coked condenser, bad start relay or bad capacitor. Not all ref compressors use a start capacitor.

Unplug and allow compressor to cool off. Make sure condenser isn't full of lint before you try to restart it. If it fails to restart try the following:

First thing I would do is remove start relay/or start cap. There are 3 terminals on compressor. Common, start and run. Measure the resistance from common to start and common to run. The exact resistance isn't important. Need to make sure wires aren't open. Will get a resistance of 10 ohms or less. There should be a diagram or marking someplace to determine C, R and S. Also check wires for shorts to ground, the metal of compressor.

Second, I would look for a capacitor. Many old ones didn't use start caps.

Third, If compressor didn't have a start cap, I would rig up a cord to connect power to common,C, and neutral to run ,R, winding.

Fourth, use an amprobe to measure current on common leg.

Fifth, Connect a jumper wire from run to start. I would use a short jumper with insulated alligator clips so they could be removed easily.

Plug in the power cord you made up and a second later remove jumper from start to run.

Compressor will then run on the power connected to common and run.

If compressor uses a capacitor you will need to connect it with a jumper between run and start and remove cap a second later too.

If you don't have a clue what I'm telling you, CALL A PROFESSIONAL OR GET A NEW REF.

The clicking sound you are hearing is the Klixon opening. You can google Klixon motor protector.

My dad was in the heating, air and ref business. So you could say, I grew up working on this stuff. If you don't feel comfortable with electricity, call someone.
George
 

[M-MAN]

Amp draw say's it's a locked rotor and there ain't no fixing that. A hammer might free it up but it will lock again. I woulden't replace the compressor in mine if it locked and I have all the equipment to do it with.
 

[markiz41]

Thanks, all. Time to shop for a new one.
 

[George Marsh]

If you could put off buying a new ref, I'm sure you will see a lot of deals real soon. Black Friday if not sooner.