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Case DC4 carb freezing


 
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jvw1955
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Joined: 28 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:06 am    Post subject: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

We have a 1955 Case DC4 which is still used on a regular basis fr PTO work, raking etc. But it is getting very hard to use on colder days, as the pipe from the carb freezes shortly after starting. Any solution to this? It starts very easily, I don't even use a battery, just a couple of cranks.
 
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Christopher Mikesell
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:42 am    Post subject: Re: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

This is called carbrator icing. It happens on cold damp days when there is a lot of moisture in the air. The main reason that it happens is that the carbrator venturi increases the velocity of the air and drops the pressure to draw the fuel. This causes water to condense out of the air and freeze. This problem is exacerbated by the increaseing use of ethanol in fuel (especially during the winter months, and especially in southern california and the surrounding states). Ethanol has a much greater heat of vaporization than gasoline, so it sucks up a lot more heat as it vaporizes. The solution is to run the tractor at idle until the intake manifold warms up, to insulate the manifold so that it looses less heat to the outside air, or to run gasoline without ethanol. You could also take off the muffler and make an exhaust pipe that blows right onto the manifold above the carbrator. Carbrator icing is a common problem with piston engined aircaft when the conditions are right, and aircraft have a carb heat system for dealing with the problem.
 
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pete 23
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Often times, if you shut the tractor down after it is warm and iced up, the heat from engine will thaw it out and keep manifold warm enough upon restart to not bother again until next cold start up. What some guys do, not necessarily on that model tractor but all same principle, is to build a stove around the muffler, hook a tube to it and run it into air cleaner intake. This brings dry, warm air in but no exhaust with it. Same thing cars did with the air intake on carbureted engines only they had a thermostatic control on air cleaner to by pass it when air temp was warmer.
 
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dcz3
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:34 am    Post subject: Re: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have a DC that does the same thing when I use it for snow removal and yes I do run ethanol. I bunge cord a piece of cardboard on the carb side problem solved!
 
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Moline_guy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:46 am    Post subject: Re: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

As far back as I can remember, my uncle had a license plate wired to the manifold above the carb to prevent this very thing, never seemed to bother with that on.
 
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rusty6
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 11:44 am    Post subject: Re: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote


A DC4 that starts in winter? I can only dream about that. Mine won't start on the hottest day of summer if it pulled by another tractor. I call it my "pull start tractor". Carburetor icing is a problem on most of my gas engines but as stated by others, just shut down for a few minutes to let the engine heat up the intake manifold and that usually clears it up and keeps it ice free on my Cockshutt 40, IH Loadstar, Olds engined pickup truck, etc.
 
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jvw1955
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks for all the responses, I was thinking maybe the carb just needed adjusted, since it seems to be worse in recent years, but that may be the new blends of gas instead, as mentioned. I'll try the cardboard first, that seems like the easiest route.
 
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mEl
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Re: Case DC4 carb freezing Reply to specific post Reply with quote

rusty6 wrote:
(reply to post at 12:44:29 10/29/12)


On the farm we had a 39 DC with the 5505 hi comp head and M&W pop up pistons. It would not start even in its stock form on 6 V so I know exactly what you mean. We converted it to 12V and it was reliable at any temp. We would start it at -20 if needed with no problem. unless you are a purist who likes to sit and stare at his "correct" tractor that he cannot use I heartily recommend a 12 V conversion, a good rebuild on the starter to assure it's condition and if spark is an issue a good look at the mag/ dist. whichever the Case may be.

I've heard all the stuff about heavy cables and hi cranking amp 6 V batteries but I first drove that 39 when I was only big enough to hold the steering wheel standing on the floorboard while Dad and Mom threw bales on a wagon while I kept it straight down the rows, Dad did the hand clutch and told me to keep her straight. I'm goin on 68 now and still have it and I know pretty much what makes her tick.

If you're gonna use it, 12V it!

mEl
 


Last edited by mEl on Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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