Installing An Oil Seal On A 200???

[LMack]

I have never had an oil seal that refused to go in . . . until now. It is the right seal on the Break/Clutch Rock shaft. The seal from CIH just will not go. The one on the left did just fine. What am I missing here? I was able to use the shaft to insure proper alignment still can't get it to start. Any suggestions?
 

[Dean Olson]

I suspect your talking about the seal that goes in the bull pinion retainer. I just picked up 2 and installed on my SC today. They are tighter than the last set i got. I grease them up and tap them into place. Go slow and hit a little harder each time till it goes. You need to tap them all the way around as it will bind up easily. I did deform the lip pretty good getting one in but straightened it up once I had it all the way in. .
 

[LMack]

The shaft that the clutch and break peddles rotate on has two seals and oil standing on the inside of the transmission against the seals. I did what you suggested but it will not even start. I will grease it up tomorrow and try again after I remove the break housing to get it out of the way. I have a way to rig a press so we will see. I noticed a shoulder along the entrance to the hole so a file may be in order. I know the old seal popped out once I got it started.
 

[CNKS]

Been a long time but I don't remember any problem on a C, or any tractor for that matter. Seals in general I sometimes will wire wheel the paint off with a bench grinder. I try to get them started by tapping gently with a hammer, then I pound on a block of wood. I sometimes use a ratchet socket if it fits right. If crooked, I strike the highest side. All have gone in on the 4 tractors I have replaced all the seals in.
 

[CNKS]

You don't need a file--are you sure you have the right seal? A rare mistake by the seller but it has happened. If the seal person took the measurements it could happen. If they are CaseIH seals or if the number was crossed it shouldn't happen.
 

[LMack]

Thanks and I agree. I have installed many just like you describe. This is the first to be a real bugger. I think the last owner may have hammered too hard to get his in and left a deformed seat. I have a file or wheel planned for tomorrow. I will try grinding off the shoulder I saw just before dark and try again.
 

[LMack]

I will check. They came from the CIH warehouse drop shipped from ATL. There were two and one went in with no problem. As you have suggested I will verify the part numbers before I go break something. I didn't have my glasses on but I was able to see a shoulder. I will take a closer look in the morning.
 

[CNKS]

Not likely they are wrong, but if the previous owner messed up, then a file or whatever,I don't know how anyone could mess up a hole in that location, unless he was dumb enough to try to pry it out with a screwdriver between the seal and the housing. On the C I mentioned I had to have the head planed because he drove in a screwdriver.
 

[LMack]

Wow! Now I know I have to wear my glasses when doing close work on the 200. When I removed the old seal it literally jumped out. Actually today when I went back with my glasses on I could see another section of the old seal still in the race. Once removed the new seal went right in. Now I feel like a real nit wit. Thanks for the help guys! Now my dad's old rule comes back to me . . . if it don't fit don't force it. A bigger hammer is not always the answer.
 

[pete 23]

The good part of the whole deal is you came back on , admitted your error, and let us know you got it corrected.
 

[BOB HAWBECKER]

good job it pays to walk away some times and NOT get the big hammer out,again you did good.