MF 135 Headlight switch

[JerryCPP (WA)]

My 135 has the original rear work light, a flashing amber tail light, two double beam headlights, and a center-mounted single filament front work light. For a while I kept blowing the fuse, then put in a 30 amp circuit breaker and all was well. Now the switch is apparently shot. This is the second switch, and I"m hesitant to buy another if there is another problem. Any suggestions?
 

[Don-Wi]

It should be the same switch that we use in both our 165 and 285. Our 285 has a new stitch in and the new ones just don't last. We might get 2 years out of a switch if we're lucky. Our 165 still has its original switch.

Donovan from wisconsin
 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hi,
Many things like key switches and light switches coming onto the market today afe frankly of very poor quality. I believe that most originate from places like Turkey. A tractor repairer told me a while ago that they buy key switches by the hundred to go on tractors for export. The original UK Lucas switches sell for around £18-20. He told me that they buy these for less than £2 Are the genuine MF ones still available? If you can be sure that its a gen one its worth the extra money. It does have to be said though that even parts which have MF's blessing are sometimes Vapormatic.
DavidP, South Wales
 

[miner09]

I had same problem with poor quality switch for the F-40. I've got them new and wouldn't work. I've used old original one off parts tractor and are alot better than new. I thought they came from China and most everthing we get in USA comes from China. It's a shame.
 

[Don-Wi]

The ones we get are direct from our dealer, so they are AGCO switches. Still junk and the dealer parts guy admits it.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 

[MikeNL]

Because the original switches were so well made you actually (carefully) take them apart. If you're lucky they are just oxidised or a bit worn and can be cleaned or adjusted.
I've fixed light switches and Start safety switches this way.
Worth a try ?
Mike.
 

[Chip812]

For the 'new' switches, I recommend wiring them to activate a relay that carries the higher amperage. It's the only way I know to not 'melt' them.