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2-180 FWA over/under


 
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Mitch Poindexter
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Joined: 30 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: 2-180 FWA over/under Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Got a chance to pull it back in the garage this weekend to try to figure out why the o/u shifts into under when you move the shifter to over. Put the pressure gauge on both the direct clutch port and the overdrive clutch port and both read 195psi when shifted into their position. Both go to zero when shifted out of their position. Under works perfectly, and direct works perfectly, but when you shift it into over (linkage is working properly), it shifts itself into under drive. Troubleshooting matrix in the book suggests that I have a plugged port somewhere in the unit, but I sure can't seem to figure out where.

Should I try taking oil lines off and blowing air through everything just in case something is just plugged up?
 
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OLarry from MD
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Re: 2-180 FWA over/under Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Underdrive is allways there running its just that when the other gears are working the overrunning clutch just slips.So it sounds like a bad over clutch.
 
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TFE.INC
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 2-180 FWA over/under Reply to specific post Reply with quote

YOU LOST THE OVER-DRIVE CLUTCH, PROBABLY TORE THE TEETH OFF THE PLATES ,IF YOUR PRESSURE IS THERE THE PISTON IS UP AGAINST THE PLATES ,OR THE PLANET UNIT DIED THATS MY GUESS TFE.INC
 
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Mitch Poindexter
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 3:29 pm    Post subject: Re: 2-180 FWA over/under Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies.
 
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e
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:24 am    Post subject: Re: 2-180 FWA over/under Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I wonder if you had a little of this going on. If you lost clamp load and eventually sheared off the bolts, I think that might have caused your issue.

What I do with every planetary I encounter is come in and recounterbore to clean up the bottom of the counter bore. I then pickup some 12 point ARP fasteners and clean everything up good with brake cleaner. Then, I apply 7471 loctite primer and then once dry, I apply an appropriate series of red loctite. I torque the bolts to roughly 10-15% over the recommended torque for grade 8 (since the ARP's are a stronger bolt than grade Cool. I try and get a little bit of stretch on the bolts.

I do not use any lock washer and rely on the flange head, clamp load, and loctite. The problem with the original set up was the serrated tooth lock washer. Those washer are typcially ~C40 for hardness, but the bolts were a minimum of C33. Not much of a difference to enable the washer to "bite" into the cap screw.

 
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