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right rear axel leaking


 
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ArloInt
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Joined: 26 Aug 2008
Posts: 30
Location: Black Forest, Colo

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:11 am    Post subject: right rear axel leaking Reply to specific post Reply with quote

"49" 8n... Have been reading about this problem on "Smith" old tractor web site. He is talking about "Preload" on axel. I have had this axel out before for the same problem, not sure that I have the shims in the proper spot. I am ordering a new hub as mine looks a little worn and is scared up some. Can somone shed a little light on the "Preload" setup?
am ordring the 8n fo-4 manual also. Thanks
 
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John Smith8N
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Joined: 15 Aug 2007
Posts: 847
Location: Edwards, Illinois

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Re: right rear axel leaking Reply to specific post Reply with quote

ArloInt wrote:
(quoted from post at 17:11:42 11/15/12) "49" 8n... Have been reading about this problem on "Smith" old tractor web site. He is talking about "Preload" on axel. I have had this axel out before for the same problem, not sure that I have the shims in the proper spot. I am ordering a new hub as mine looks a little worn and is scared up some. Can somone shed a little light on the "Preload" setup?
am ordring the 8n fo-4 manual also. Thanks


Have you ever replaced or repacked front wheel bearings on a car or tractor? The bearings in the front hub are 2 tapered roller bearings facing each other. You tighten the nut on the spindle so that the wheel cannot wobble, but not so tight that it's hard to turn and would get hot from too much "preload". You don't want it tight, and you don't want it loose. You feel for that "just right" amount then install the cotter pin.
The rear axle assembly has 2 tapered bearings also, one on each outboard end of the axles. The axles butt together in the middle. On this application you don't have a nut to tighten or loosen to set the bearing preload on the axles. You have to add or remove shims to get the correct feel. More time consuming, but the same principle.
 
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