Changed the oil on the '66 4500 yesterday....

[PeteTheRookie]

Who ever worked on this engine for the prior owner appears to have done a great job.
What was done prior is unknown. When I got it in Dec 2010 it was a greasy mess all around the valve cover and all over the engine. Now after 2 years of periodic cleaning/power washing engine is pretty clean. Fixed gasket on oil filler cap. Valve cover seeps a little. Can see edge of head gasket and it looks new.
Does not burn any noticeable amount of oil.
Used oil dark but not jet black sludge when I drained it. Oil appeared to have good viscosity and flow like oil. Let it drain about a hour and the very last of it was a little sludgy.

Had it running awhile after oil change and when I
ran it with out oil cap on to check for blow by I did not see any at all. Have to check that again after I run it all day.

Now if I could just get the small diesel leaks on Cav pump connections to stop. Then I could start on the messier hydro leaks.

Pete
 

[Larry NCKS]

diesel is one of the hardest fluids to contain. If it's getting out, air is getting in . . . unless the leaks have the pressure of fuel above them. I watched a 961 leak fuel at the hose swivel at the pump inlet. After the engine had run just a bit, the leak dried up and the governor began hunting.
 

[PeteTheRookie]

Larry,
Tks for the reply.

I am learning that about diesel.
Seems every time I fill my tank back up some connector or fitting starts to leak.
The shut off valve on the bottom of the fuel tank being the most frequent. Sometimes I just have to give it a wiggle or turn it all the way in, and back out and it stops.
I suppose it getting down into the upper 20's at nite and into low 50's during the day doesn't help either?
Tks for the tip. I will check it again in the AM before I get going.
Pete
 

[Greg Wolodkin]

It is possible to get the diesel leaks to stop. On my 1970 4000su the biggest culprits were the fuel shutoff below the tank (as you've noticed on yours), also the line from there to the single CAV filter and on the pump. Old rubber connecting some of those sections, which I believe was original equipment, was also too far gone and always weeping. A similar piece where the excess fuel from the injectors went back into the top of the tank filler.

Bending up a few new lines and putting new rubber fuel line sections in did the trick.. in two years, no more diesel leaking.

The last leak is from the bottom of the bell housing (hole with cotter pin), and I guess I have to split the tractor to fix that one. Haven't yet figured out for sure but I think it's UTF from the 8-speed transmission. Engine oil level doesn't change, not sure yet if trans. or rear oil level is changing but suspect it's getting lower. The leak isn't bad enough to make it real obvious yet.

Good luck!
Greg
 

[PeteTheRookie]

greg,
I need to expect to change the oring in fuel cut off once a year.
Line from that the filter too direct. Needs a loop to take up vibrations and rocking. Ditto for line from filter housing to pump.
My tranny leaks too. But I have a 2ft by 4 ft drip pan under tractor belly filled with speedy dry. Works great. Now that I got the hydro leak on right frame welded/fixed my belly pan only needs to be cleaned about every 20plus hrs.
Left lower loader cylinder leak next on list. Will post drip can for that one later today.
Pete