Broken bolt in connecting rod

[Jim Paterson]

I broke off a bolt in my connecting rod and the end of the bolt is about 1/8-1/4" deep into the threaded hole. Is this something a machine/engine shop could easily remove?

Thanks

 

[the tractor vet]

Yes , BUT how in the hello did ya do that In all my years the only time i have seen a broken connection rod bolt was from twisten and engine far above reason of sanity OR if that bolt was already broke half way thru and the more i look at it it may have well been cracked . Or your torque wrench is way out of adjustment.
 

[Jim Paterson]

I was looking at the break and it looks like there may have been a problem with the bolt. I was just tightening it and it wasn't even near torque yet. Snapped right off.
 

[Janicholson]

any bolt that fails way below proper torque is prime for removal with a little bit of mechanical tapping. I would hold the rod securely in a good vice (with soft jaw protectors).
I would use a small puncture wound punch or ice pic and place the point so as to turn the bolt out.
It is also a prime candidate for a small square tapered easy out. (non spiral type.)
I think it is not stuck, just broken from fatigue failure.
I would not use any of them from that set.
Jim
 

[Jim Paterson]

Thanks Jim. After that one broke, I went out and bought all new hardened bolts.
 

[the tractor vet]

Then IF it did not bottom out it will come right out , just how good are ya at drilling a hole in the center ?? a left hander drill bit would be the cat arres And a easy out SHOULD back it out , no IF there is a problem with the threads in the rod or it has bottomed out then thats different .
 

[John G. Hasler]

If it has bottomed out or is otherwise stuck you may want to look around for someone with an EDM machine.
 

[rustyfarmall]

Find a nut that will fit inside the hole, and set on top of the broken bolt. Using a wire welder, weld ONLY in the hole in the center of that nut. Be generous with the weld, but DO NOT get outside of that center hole. Let everything cool down, put a socket on the nut and back it out.
 

[El Toro]

I would put some heat on it then try to loosen the broken part. Hal
 

[David G]

I doubt you could drill that bolt if it is hardened, but could probably turn it out with a reverse drill or chisel.

I have had enough failures that I just replace rod bolts now.
 

[GordoSD]

Those smooth areas near the outer edges are fatigue cracks. Bolt failed at about 40% of it's rated strength in torsion, (the little spurs).
 

[David G]

Gordo, my shoulder is failing the same way, also has those spurs.
 

[rustyfarmall]

[Paul from MI]

If that rod is one that you can find a replacement for I'd do that. Connecting rod bolts are stressed pretty highly and I'd not take a chance on trying to save a rod if a replacement is available easily. MOst connecting rods are forged and I would stay away from heat which could alter the hardness and strength of the rod. In short, I'd replace it if at all possible.
 

[GordoSD]

The days of pitching overhand to my grandsons just went South. And I throw like a girl left handed. How do you spell batting cage?