Small dump trailer

[Hogleg]

Anyone either buy or build a small dump trailer?

I have a loader and carry dirt in it to places on the 40 acre farm. I would like to build or buy/restore an old small dump trailer. I want to use the 36hp Ford 2000 to haul3-4 buckets of dirt and dump elsewhere without the back and forth of one bucket at a time. Thinking a 2 wheel cart with maybe a 5x8 foot bed that can be handled by the little Ford with a single action hydraulic line. Nothing too heavy. Most of the for sale dump trailers are way too much overkill and too expensive.

Anyone got any ideas? Maybe a welding project for the winter?

John
 

[DiyDave]

Cheapest one I have seen is the back of a 1 ton mason dump truck,
cut off behind the cab, and a trailer tongue welded to it, move the
pto pump back on the trailer, and attach a tractor drive shaft to it.
You may have to play around with the speed of the pump, but that's
what sprockets and chains are for!
 

[Zachary Hoyt]

This one is about a 4x8 foot gravity trip dump type system. I use it
all of the time for firewood, rocks and dirt. No idea where it came
from or who made it, it was here when we arrived 11 years ago. If
you want more detailed pictures I can take them and post them. It
has high clearance with 20" wheels so it will ride over anything the
tractor will clear.
Zach


 

[Hogleg]

Hey Zach,

That's the idea! Can you take a pic of it dumping so I can see how they setup the pivot under the bed. I see some flare trailer beds occasionally so maybe cutting one shorter and mating to a trailer frame is a good approach.

Thanks for posting...

John
 

[Bill in IL]

I built one several years ago. It is a 4x8 and with dirt is
enough load for my wd45. It's low to the ground for pitching
firewood. Made the frame from channel iron would
recommend 1/4 inch wall rectangular tube maybe 3x 4 or
similar for that size trailer. I used a scissor hoist and an old
axle I bought on a sale. Rest of the frame was angle iron and
outdoor plywood. A metal top rail to protect the plywood would
have been good.
 

[PJH]

Here's a pic of ours. It's a 1 ton Chevy, cut down, pump hooked up to an 8HP Briggs. Twin post hoist. It also has a valve and male hydraulic fitting so it can be powered by the tractor hydraulics. I've added proper mud flaps, lighting, drop center wheels and good tires since this pic was taken, and next plan is to add electric over hydraulic brakes so it can be licensed. Tongue weight on ours is kinda high for a Ford 2000 I would think. My son has a 30HP Kubota, and it's borderline heavy for it.

I think that one of the posters, Fawteen(?), on here is currently making a dump trailer. Mebbe he'll check in with some tips for you.

I like Zach's gravity dump trailer. Workable and simple.

Paul

 

[old]

Over the years I have built a good many dump/tilt trailers. Some where set up for hauling ATV/Riding lawn mowers some for the heavy stuff. Some had the bed set up so if you tripped the latch it would dump but those where for the ATVs. Then I have had some with a winch dump set up and some with hyd dump.
 

[JMS/.MN]

You can buy wagon hoists that are used on flatbeds or the old flare boxes. Some flare boxes have a front lift cyl with a built-in hand pump. I have one with the front lift cyl using 1-way tractor hyd. My rock wagon has a hoist and frame from an old small (5 yd) gravel truck. Found another with box and hoist for $100 in a salvage yard. Can use tractor hyd or run the truck hoist with pto.
 

[Zachary Hoyt]

Sorry about the delay. Here are pictures, if you need more or closer
let me know.
Zach







 

[PJH]

That's an interesting trailer Zach. I'm wondering what's the purpose of that sliding bar under the bed.

Paul

 

[PJH]

Hogleg - if you go down in Tractor Tales, Fawteen has a new post about his trailer project, with a video.
 

[onefarmer]

Looks like a limiter to me so the box doesn't roll over all the way backwards. Or maybe an adjuster to hold at a certain angle.
 

[Zachary Hoyt]

The sliding bar was supposed to hold the wagon bed up in the fully raised position but the end of the bar is worn and it pops off. The four bars that make an X shape prevent the bed from going all of the way back and the sliding bar is supposed to engage on the center of the X. Maybe someday I should fix it.
Zach
 

[Hogleg]

Great ideas, guys... Off to tractor-tales to see what Fawnteen is up to...


John