Pulling 611b steering wheel?

[Genos]

Trying to pull steering wheel on 611b row crop, has plastic covered wheel 1 wide spoke. is this shaft tapered, got nut off, anyone got one of these off without destroying steering wheel? i am trying to get the shaft out to replace both shaft bushings, looks like i will have to take the framework under battery loose & tilt it back to get shaft out from bottom, has 2 U-joints before you get to char-lyn steering motor,
U-joints don,t seem to come off shafts. anyone out there that,s done this before? Thanks Gene
 

[Dodgeit]

[Joe (Wa)]

If the steering wheel looks like the top pic it is a 1958 with woodruff key shaft.

If like other pic it is a 1959 with a splined shaft.

I think both are tapered but the old geezer memory isn't so good.

If you have the time soak with PB Blaster or similiar. Bump the wheel both ways to break it loose.

BTW these are 300 & 300B pics but the 600B are the same configuration.

Joe


 

[Case Nutty 1660]

Joe is that a 3/8" breaker bar for a throttle lever in the bottom pic? I like it cnt
 

[Joe (Wa)]

Yup, Tom that is a 3/8 snap-on breaker. When I bought the tractor it had the original? factory vicegrips on the shaft. I silver soldered a 3/8 extension female end on the shaft and had a removable handle. It's probably rusted on for life now. I later picked-up a good handle like the 310 above. Still haven't put it on there. Maybe next summer.

Joe
 

[Joe Young]

Gene

The universal joint yokes are not removable from the shaft, so the steering wheel must come off to replace the bushings in the steering column.

Once the wheel is removed, you will need to disconnect the rod at the power steering torque motor (roll pin and woodruff key), disconnect the support bracket (p.n. G1284), and remove the 4 bolts that hold the cast steering column to the torque tube (Be careful not to twist-off the front two bolts. They are long (about 5") bolts, and it can be challenging to get a grip on the bolt head since it is recessed into the casting. Particularly if the bolt head is corroded). That will allow you to tip the steering column aft far enough to remove the steering shaft(s) forward. It is not necessary to remove all the wires and cables going to the dash, but it does make things easier. You do not need to split any of the universal joints to get the shaft out of the steering column, although with them out, it may be a good time to replace any worn u-joints...

Good luck with the wheel removal. They can be a bugger, and it's the most challenging part of this job. Worst case scenario is you get a nice shiny new steering wheel.... I've pulled several of them successfully, but have broken a couple during the removal process.

Note in the diagram below, the right pic shows the 1958 model with the keyed shaft, and the left shows the 1959 model with the tapered shaft.




 

[Genos]

Thanks Joe! i guess we were thinking the correct way to get the shaft out, now to get steering wheeel off, i have pulled quit a few steering wheels, but was not saving them on tractors i restored, but this is a working tractor. even pulled one on a J.D. B and when it came off the wheel, the puller and me went off back of tractor. Thanks for your info Gene