oil change for cub cadet 122

[happy hooker pullers]

I want to change the oil in my cub cadet 122. i just bought it recently. what type should i use? i was told to use 5w-50 synthetic oil for cold weather starting an running This person said he has been using it for 15 yrs in a cc 149 with no problems. any more sugestions????? thanx

p.s. Thanx Old Roy for pics of cc-122 with snow on it that is my blade exactley.
 

[Tom Arnold]

Kohler recommends 10W30 for temps that are below the freezing point of water. You need to be more diligent in checking your oil level because the engine will burn a bit more oil with this grade in the crankcase.

However, there is no reason to not use the 5W50 synthetic if you wish to. Synthetic oil will make it easier for your starter motor to spin over the engine in sub-zero F temps. When spring rolls around the air temps get back above the freezing point, then dump the oil and install straight 30 weight, as per Kohler's recommendation.

Put an hour meter on the tractor and then change the engine oil every 25 hours MAX from then on. In between oil changes, make sure the oil level stays at the FULL mark on the dipstick.
 

[dhermesc]

Why would it burn more? At operating temp 30 weight is the same as 10W30 weight oil.
 

[Tom Arnold]

Straight 30W oil is made from 30 weight base stock. 10W30 is made from 10 weight base stock that has modifiers added to make it "behave" like a 30 weight once it reaches a certain temperature. They are two different oils in spite of what the multi-grade label implies.

Kohler's own Op Manual for the K engines says:

"Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE IOW-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits."


So... if Kohler themselves have warned about "substantial increases in oil consumption" above 32 F, then logically there will be an increased oil consumption in temps below 32 F. The only thing worse than dirty oil is...... not enough oil. That is why I posted the warning. Better to check the oil more often than to watch the con rod fly out the side of the block.
 

[Ken Combs]

My take on the difference: The viscosity modifiers make it behave as a 30 weight at the bearing crank interface under load and shear. But, the ring to cylinder is a different situation, as there is no load, just a sliding interface with no real 'squishing' load. The applications are totally different and the thinner base 'leaks' by the rings at a higher rate.

In the early days of multiweight, I worked in a service station and later was involved in a lot of engine repair.
All my customers experienced higher oil consumption with multiweights. Usually they would burn no oil in the first 1000 mile, then in the next 1000 burn a quart. If it wasn't changed at that point, consumption would increase so that from 2500 to 3000 it would burn full quart.
That's mostly Phillips Trop Arctic, as they were one of the early makers and local to me. So lots of it sold here.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
 

[happy hooker pullers]

Thanx to all of you who replied to my question about oil.I do not have a manual yet, but i will get one soon ,I like the 5w-50 oil for the winter time ,IS there a synthetic oil i can use for spring an summer, OR should i really stick with the straight 30 wt. I don't want to burn up my tractor, i will get an hr meter also an amp meter.I will change as often as needed 25hr. or sooner, an keep it full on the dip stick. I plan on doing some compitition pulling with this an some of my other cub cadets tractors. CC-72 CC-104 I'm not sure with which one yet THANX again for the reply's The HAPPY HOOKER PULLERS
 

[Tom Arnold]

If you want to run synthetic, then go to Amsoil's website. They have a product that is equal to straight 30 weight.

Oil.... as a subject matter... is as personal and volatile as politics and religion. Therefore, I will not attempt to sway you one way or the other. There is no filtration on your motor. As such, the only way to protect the engine is to change out the oil every 25 hours at the maximum. If you were running in very dusty conditions, then perhaps every 10 hours would be more advisable. Using a synthetic oil does not change any of that because both types of oil will get equally contaminated under the same operating conditions.