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Intake valve removal


 
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HeyObie
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Joined: 12 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Intake valve removal Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I removed the exhaust valves from my 49 front mount but I can't figure out how to remove the intake valves. There is no information in the manual.

I have a spring compressor. When I use it on the exhaust valves, the springs pop once the keepers let loose. The exhaust valves have 2 piece keepers.

When I compress the spring on the intakes valves, There are not any keepers. It is one piece.

Obviously, I am missing something very basic.

Help appreciated.

Obie
 
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ZANE
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: Intake valve removal Reply to specific post Reply with quote

VALVES REMOVE FROM THE N ENGINE

First remove the manifold and the tappet covers.

Fabricate a tool from a big heavy common screwdriver that can be inserted into the valve ports and used to push the valve guides down enough to remove the horseshoe retainers that hold the valve guides at the bottom of the valve guide just above the spring.

When the retainer is removed then it is possible to drive the whole valve assembly out the top of the engine up through the valve port .

The spring keepers can then be removed and the valve assembly disassembled.

Seals are only used on the intake valve guide and they will be the ones that are the hardest to remove from the block because of the old seal being like hardened glue on the outside of the old intake valve guide. Only use guide seals on the intake when reinstalling the valve assemblies.

Name: ZANE
E-Mail: wzsherman@aol.com
Subject: Re: Removing valves from engine
Body of Message:
The best way I have found to get the valve assemblies out of the block is to use a big flat/spade screwdriver that has been ground down about 1/8 inch or so just up from the tip end about a 1/4" inch or so and long enough space ground down to let the cut out come out past the side of the block.
Place the screwdriver/prybar into the valve port on top of the valve guide close to the valve stem and pull up on the screwdriver/prybar to push the guide down enough to pull out the horse shoe keeper.
Next take that same screwdriver and place the tip end on the spring close to the end of the valve guide and smack it a few good ones with a hammer to drive the guide/valve assembly out the top.
Once it is out the top you can depress the spring and take the keepers off to dis assemble the units. Don't loose the little cup thingies that are on the bottom of the exhaust valves if it has rotating exhaust valves in it.
Only the intake valve guide should have seals installed on them when you go back up. None on the exhaust valve guides.
Acording to Zane
Added on Date: 06:24:39 06/07/06
 
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SIR....John,PA
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Intake valve removal Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Seems like the universal store fronts, GRAINER SALES PERSOM will recommend te correct "LOCKTIGHT" products.

Nice piercings.

John,PA
 
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HeyObie
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Intake valve removal Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks Zane. I will give it a try. No wonder it wasn't intuitive.
 


Last edited by HeyObie on Fri Nov 30, 2012 3:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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HeyObie
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: Intake valve removal Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I got it out Zane. Thank you muchly.

Obie
 
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HeyObie
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 5:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Intake valve removal Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I took a large screw driver and grinded it down so
I could get some leverage on it to push down the
valve guide. The screw driver rests on the top of
the valve port (intake or exhaust.

No matter what I did. I could not push the guide
down to remove the guide keeper. So I went search
for another tool.

I had a very large needle nose pliers which has a
90% bend at the end. The length of the bend was
perfect (about 1/2 inch).

I opened the needle nose so that there was a tip
on each side of the valve on the valve guide.
Because there was equal pressure on both sides of
the valve, it was balanced and when I lifted and
it popped.

The pliers can be found at harbor freight for
about $12. Not online.

Just saying.
 
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