super c steering

[blunted]

thanks for all the help for even some of my stupid questions. can you weld a bead on the worm gear to take the slop out? i think why not, but tell me. check the big gear in hoseing, looked real good where worm hits. new universles. thanks
 

[Fritz Maurer]

Your questions weren't as bad as your spelling. Before welding on the gears, make sure you have zero end play at the worm shaft, as this is often mistaken for a worn gear set. I don't often get to see a worn-out set of steering gears on a Farmall, except in extreme cases such as 50% water and 50% rust. I don't see any benefit to welding the gears. The action will never be smooth and the heat will anneal the gears and they'll wear faster than before.
 

[Janicholson]

If you mean on the spiral wear surface, no. The material would be a lumpy un usable ruined part. Plasma spray buildup with contour grinding does work, but it is expensive. If you were thinking of welding something else tell us more. Jim
 

[gene bender]

The play in those gears usually is the bearing on the end this allows end play on the main shaft. I would replace all bushings, seals and the two bearings. There is also a key in the gear that mite be giving some play and needs to be replaced. The worm and the gear usually are in good shape. Does yours have the round gear it can be rotated 180 so new unused teeth are mating on the worm.
 

[blunted]

yes, gene. had it out, expecting to turn it 180, but it was just shiny wher the worm hit. no groove. thanks i spose il have to take the new univercle out to get the yoke off, rite?
 

[blunted]

yes, jim. spiral gear is the one
 

[blunted]

sorry, janic. with now knowing what gene and fritz say, sounds much better. wounder if a shim behind the bearing retainer would work? thanks. yes, my spelling sucks. to bad im the only one knows what im sayin,,,,,,,,,, thanks again
 

[Janicholson]

The end bearing in the worm is a ball bearing it does not shim, it gets replaced with a deep groove heavy duty bearing matching the original. The bearing is held rigidly front to back in the housing by the cap.
Turn the wheel to the right only as far as the slop, not to the far right, and put a weight on the wheel to hold it there. clean the location where the shaft goes into the housing. Mark it with a felt tip pen. Turn the wheel opposite to remove slop and weight it again to hold it there.
Now look at the mark. if the mark is now way out from the housing, the bearing is toast. A tiny bit is OK, but it should be .005" or less. Jim