1755 Hydraulic Leak

[UP Oliver]

I posted a few weeks ago about my 1755 losing hydraulic oil. I filled the tank to where it belongs some time ago, ran it around spreading manure for not even two hours, and the oil level was way below the end of the stick.

So today I would say I had to add well over half a gallon to bring it back up to where it belongs. I plugged the high pressure line to the PTO like someone on this site told me to do, and ran it at 1600 rpm for around an hour and a half.

I just checked the level and it is maybe an eighth of an inch below where I filled it to earlier today. I don't think I lost anything actually; it is colder out the right now than before I started.

So anyway, can someone tell me what I need to fix my problem? Or do I need to do more tests?

Thanks for all the help so far.
 

[buzzinduzzin]

is the rear end oil level now too full? if you are confident that the p.t.o. is the culprit it will need to be removed & rebuilt. There are a few other places where hyd. oil can get into the rear end.
 

[UP Oliver]

I need to check the rear end level, but last time I checked it the level was above where it was supposed to be.

As far as my confidence on what the problem is, that is my question. Is there any other test or check that needs to be done to be sure?

Thanks.
 

[Wrenchbender]

99.9% probability that it's the O-rings in the PTO. WB<><.
 

[UP Oliver]

Any idea where I can get the parts, or the kit I need?

Thanks.
 

[buzzinduzzin]

any ago dealer has access to parts. Try Maibach tractor, Creston Ohio. 800-808-9934
 

[UP Oliver]

Is it a big job?

If I drained the end gear oil out and got started a little one day, could I take the PTO unit out, do the job and get it back in the next day?

Thanks.
 

[buzzinduzzin]

I have only pulled two. Both were a bear to get out. Remove the fill/breather & screw a square headed pipe plug in tight so a good crowbar will have something to grab. A putty knife drove in between the housings will help the gasket to let go.First thing to do is pull the I.P.T.O. shaft out the back. There is a snap ring, plug & o-ring that come before the shaft can be pulled. Allow yourself more than one day you might have to order parts.
 

[BradWi]

Call jerry at ag parts first 1-866-264-9720,you need a quad ring kit for the pto.There are also some lip seals in there off the top of my head i think there are three one for the range selector rod (if it is a two speed pto)Then one on the topshaft and one on the lower shaft.As far as the project it self I did our 1755 in an afternoon.But i had previously power washed the tractor so add an hour to do that if needed.As was stated before pull the long pto to flywheel shaft out (a good long 1/2 inch bolt is needed to use as a puller),drain the rear end,unhook the pressure and return lines and remove from the rear housing.When I take these out I have found it helpful to cut the heads off of two 10" long 1/2" bolts and wind them into the two lower big holes on each side of the pto.it works nice to slide it away from the tractor without having it drop ,although it takes a little careful wiggling to get it out because the internal casting on the pto unit is just tall enough that it hooks the top of the rear end housing.An overhead chainfall is ideal if available otherwise....watch your toes!The rest is disassemble then re assemble nothing too tricky ,except the manual calls for a compressor tool to press the spring in there to unseat a snap ring.I welded one up finally but if you are careful a short piece of chain and a bar can get it done.I'm sure i may be forgetting something,but thats what i recall.hope this helps
 

[J. Schwiebert]

I always used 2 long bolts in the top tapered bolt holes. You have a little more room to tip the unit