9N Points

[Connor]

I keep having trouble with losing spark on my 9N.
I cleaned the old points, and it worked.
Got new plugs because the old ones were fouled.
Then it sat for a month or 2 in the garage, didn't start so I bought new Echlin points, it started up with better spark than it ever had.
Then I used it a while and let it sit for a month without running it in the garage.
Again the points fouled and I have no spark.
I'm thinking of just doing away with the points altogether and getting a electronic ignition kit for front mount distributors.

I have a Farmall 200, and all I've ever done with that was to put the dist. cap in the oven on low with the door open once when it got damp after a year of sitting.

I don't know why but the 9N never wants to start when I want it to.
 

[tackhammertime]

Are you using the three gaskets that go with the coil/ dist? My 47 2n sits in a shed with no heat 365 and starts every time. I always run it once a month. Points are three years old.
 

[Connor]

I have the cork gaskets for between the cap and dist., and for between the coil and dist.
Where is the third one at?
I thought there is one for between the block and the distributor, but I called my Ford dealer and he said no, and I couldnt find a gasket set online..
 

[old]

Gasket between the block and the distributor one below the coil and one for the cap which gives you 3. Most of the time what causes the points to corrode is the fact that when the engine shuts down the points are closed so they in turn corrode due to touching each other. If you can figure out how to get them open when you park it then that would be a lot less of a problem.
 

[Mike OH]

Every time I shut down my 8N, I turn the key back on after the engine stops and watch the amp meter. If I see a negative deflection,(meaning the points are closed) I jog the starter button until the amp meter returns and stays at zero, before turning the key off. Then I know the points are open. I truly believe this practice has extended the life of my points.
 

[old]

Ya that works if your amp gauge works and or will move from the points being closed. I have seen many that doing that will no work
 

[Ken(Ark)]

[Dell (WA)]

Conner........you do know ittza 2-bolt, 15-min job to remove the weird 4-nipple frontmount dizzy and change the points (0.015") on the kitchen table, don't you??? Just un-snapple yer capple and letter dangle. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts and install the rotor. Rotate the rotor until the OFF-SET drive tang fits into the camshaft OFF-SET drive slot. Now tighten yer 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh?

The OFF-SET drive scheme means you can never install yer 2-bolt dizzy outta time.

REMEMBER to "polish" the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points (0.015") after installation. Me? I clamp a clean $1-bill between the points (0.015") and pull. Iff'n yer really cheap, tear a strip from HEAVY brown paper grocery sack and use that.

Surprizingly enuff, points CORRODE when OPEN. (oxygen in air you know) Closed points do NOT corrode. Howsomevers, closed points will MELT the cheap points plastic bumper iff'n you leave the weaksister ignition switch ON.

FYI.........yer weaksister ignition switch is the cause of most 9N run problems. It goes BAD innna 'bout 15-mins just as you complain. After it cools down (30-mins) you can re-start yer 9N and it will run fer about 15-mins again. ...also... yer carb has about 5-mins of gas in the bowl. A BAD condenser usually runs fer about 1-min before weak sparkies cause engine stops.

A BAD squarecan ignition coil runs fer about 1-hr before the insulative tar melts and causes engine to stop. ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 

[JMOR]

There ya go! Some say they corrode less if left open, some say corrode less if left closed. Time to avoid the point-fiscal-cliff here, so to speak, so I guess we should leave the points half open or half closed!