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8n Brake pad chamfered


 
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Money Pit
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:46 am    Post subject: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Left brake has been squeaking for a while after I used it (use the brake and it would squeak for a few turns of the tire) so I took it apart to check. The pad and shoes are worn with a big chamfer on the outward side. Worn enough that there is a burr rolled into the metal part of the shoe. Top spring anchor has been dragging too. Like the brake drum is too far in. a few years back I replace the hub on the right side and adjusted the bearing play. It took a lot of shims to get the bearing set right. Did I screw it up and pull the axles towards the right and cause interference on the left brake drum? Manual says bearing play can be adjusted on either side. Thatís why Iím thinking I shifted the whole works over to the right. Is this possibel or is something else wrong? thanks



 
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JMOR
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 3:12 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Problem is that hub is worn, maybe axle too, such that spline wear is allowing hub to move too far inward. If you check, a dollar to a doughnut says that the 450 ft-lbs is not tightening against the hub, but rather just against the axle shoulder, leaving hub still loose on the axle splines.
 
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:28 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

i agree with jmor.. hub is fitting too far down on axle. one or both worn..
 
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Money Pit
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:48 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

hub is tight; no way i can rock the wheel with that side lifted off the floor. the right side i could rock without even lifting the tractor before i changed it.
 
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carlntexas
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:56 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I had the same rub marks on mine the hub was worn out. What surprises me is your pads aren't covered in oil mine were soaked.
 
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Money Pit
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:04 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

can it fit to far on the axle and not be loose? the right side had a lot of wobble to it thats why i changed that side. just want to make sure before spending $$ on a hub. yes it is acting like the hub is to far in. thanks.
 
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JMOR
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:05 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Money Pit wrote:
(quoted from post at 12:48:03 12/10/12) hub is tight; no way i can rock the wheel with that side lifted off the floor. the right side i could rock without even lifting the tractor before i changed it.
Look at end of axle. If axle splines are out past hub, as here, then hub & or axle worn allowing hub to move too far inward. Washer must tighten against hub without contacting shoulder/splined part of axle.

 
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Money Pit
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:12 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

great shot. i'll look tonight. always thought there would be wobble if it was worn. wrong thought on my part. thanks.
 
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souNdguy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:46 am    Post subject: Re: 8n Brake pad chamfered Reply to specific post Reply with quote

there are certaintly ways to shim it so that it is tight.. but still so worn and setting on too far.

look at it like this.

with the hub on the axle, if the hub sets under the axle splines with nut torqued.. hub and or axle splines are worn.

think of it like this.. nut tightens down on axle threads.. pushes hub spline into axle spline till it is tight.. if it is loose from wear, it cankeep pushing and eventually hub will be SUB-flush to axle spline shoulder, which the nut will bottom against. and then you get the funny brake-kissing issues.. an old trick is to take banding steel strapping from a pallate and cut thin strips and shim, longways, the axle to hub splines.. torque down.. run ( it will wallow flat a bit and need retorqued a few times till it settles in ) that increased the apparent axle or hub spline height, and makes the hub set farther out, and ths let the nut press on the hub and not bottom on the axle spline shoulder.

it's a shade gree bandaid fix.. but one that's been used many times till parts came in.. or till you could get the $$ together for a new hub or axle ( whatever was worn.. etc.. etc.. )

it you want to test the wear theory.. try the shimming and dry fit it and see what it gets you.
if money is a lil tight.. torque it with the shims.. run it a bit.. torque it some more.. check it each time you use it for like 5 times.. then it wil be settled usually. as long as the hub stays proude of the axle and stays tight.. it will work as advertised till you can fix it right.
 
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