Hey Inno!

[Tony in Mass.]

My turn. When you took your 202 appart... you did split it right? Which end of the steering arms popped out the best? I can't get either ends to come loose, and the thought of aiming a torch at a piece of rubber and old grease is depressing. And I certainly dont want to mess them up, although the fronts look replaceble, i'd rather not...
 

[VTParts]

Use a tie rod splitter and hit it with a good size hammer. If they will not come off heat with a torch and replace the tie rod ends they are not that expensive.
 

[Tony in Mass.]

Thanks VT... but I can't find my tie rod fork. I'll find it the last place I look eh? So just heat the front ones and buy new??? Another letter to Santa Clas...
 

[Dan S (NY)]

If you want to remove the steering tie rods from the steering box arms, insert a piece of metal between the tie rod end nut and the transmission case. Unscrew the nut so that it starts pressing against the metal and forcing the steering box arm out away from the trans. When you have a little tension on it, hit the steering box arm with a hammer just above the tie rod end. Usually one whack will pop it loose. The trick is getting the right thickness of metal between the transmission case and the nut so that the nut is still on the tie rod end threads and pushing on the metal to get some tension.

Dan
 

[Greg Vickers]

My father used to hit the rounded end of what ever the stud was into. 2 or 3 cracks, and it would usually drop off. Mind you I could never do it. He actually took the tie rods of my tea before he died.
 

[VTParts]

I know the feeling regarding missing or broken tools!! We have parted down 10 tractors in the past month and a half. When we take something apart we are as careful as possible, however time is money so sometimes we break a part or two. That's why we have a 30 yard metal dumpster behind the shop. Bob if you break something I can get it to you via USPS in a day or two. The Ferguson's we have parted are: To-35, MF 165, MF 85 & MF 50. On the to do list are a TE20 and a MF 180. Then an Oliver 550,Farmall 200, 3 Farmall C's, Farmall BN, John Deere MT and a John Deere M
 

[Tony in Mass.]

Oh, he hit the sides of the 'doughnut', I can try that too, thanks.
 

[Tony in Mass.]

Oh I've got enough junk around to find something close, and a bridgeport if we need to get accurate. This is the first I've had to split with the two power steering cylinders, sure don't want to harm these either. The whole engine came appart with 3/8's drive sockets, but I can't budge the steering system appart with the biggest stuff I own, it must have had a hard life... spesaking of which... find anymore northcountry fergies lately Dan???
 

[cdmn]

To get a taper to let go, you need an anvil, such as a heavy hammer, and then hit it on the opposite side with another heavy hammer. It is a law of physics that if you loosen friction in one direction, you also loosen it in other directions as well. By sqeezing the outer part this way, it moves circumferentially, and with some weight on the ball-end, it should drop down.
 

[Dan S (NY)]

Haven't found anything else lately that was cheap enough to make me interested. Last thing was that MF35 Perkins and went over to VT to get that. It's now in the garage in many pieces keeping the car outside.

Dan

 

[Inno]

Hey Tony, I didn't split mine but I did remove the steering arms. The front came out with a LOT of persuasion. I believe I used my #9 bashometer (great big hammer, ugh) and beat the tar out of it........now what did I support it with so as not to break anything.........hmmmm. I'm drawing a blank here. I didn't use heat 'cause I don't have a set of torches. Just beat 'em 'till they popped.