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Clutch RR


 
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Colin King
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Joined: 16 Oct 2001
Posts: 3683
Location: Clotho, MN

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I've got the 1950 8N in my sights as the next project. I'm hoping to have the repairs done in time to shoot paint when it starts to warm up in April.

This one needs a new clutch.

I have yet to do a split, though I've seen PaulInMN with a nice set-up along with the FO-4 instructions and JimUT's great photobucket album.

I need a throwout bearing and a pilot bearing...clutch disk and pressure plate...

But what about seals? I don't see any mention in the FO-4 nor in the parts catalogue? Am I missing something? How is the diffy oil kept out of the bell housing?

Thanks, guys! And a Merry Christmas to you all!!
Colin, MN
 
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Den N Ms
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Joined: 20 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Colin,The seal is on the input shaft of the transmission or the Sherman.
 
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russb wa
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Joined: 18 Jan 2010
Posts: 217
Location: Spokane

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

There is a seal at the tranny input shaft. I think it is reasonably priced, under ten bucks IIRC.
 
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Den N Ms
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 4:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Transmission input shaft SKF seal # 13568,Replace it when doing a clutch job.
 
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Paul in MN
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Joined: 19 Apr 2001
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 7:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Colin,

Contact me when you get close to doing the job. I'll give you a contact for a clutch guy who many of the big companies use and then they double his price to you. I have used him before and found him quite reasonable and very accomodating. He also has the needed bearings at reasonable cost, and he looks for quality parts.

When you do the clutch, check the starter ring gear very carefully for damaged or missing teeth. The 4 cylinder engine usually stops against compression in only 2 places on the ring gear, 180 deg apart. I have had to replace ring gears along with clutches, and have 1 or 2 N tractors sitting now needing clutches and ring gears, plus an IH 300 needing the same thing. My barn is just too cold for me to work on them now. I covet your shop!

Merry Christmas to both of you.

Paul in MN
 
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Colin King
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Joined: 16 Oct 2001
Posts: 3683
Location: Clotho, MN

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hi Paul,

It is darned cold for working outside. I spent a an hour in the shop this afternoon - not long enough to justify lighting a fire - and my hands are telling me they didn't like that. My shop is a beast to heat. It's not insulated and on a day like today when the high is in the low 20s, the best I can expect is about 50 degrees. Plenty warm to work in, but not good for painting, etc, and not easy on the firewood pile.

Thanks for the advice on the ring gear. I will also drop you a line for that fellow's contact info when I get to the clutch.

Colin
 
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Colin King
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Joined: 16 Oct 2001
Posts: 3683
Location: Clotho, MN

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thanks, Den! I've got that number saved in my parts list.

Colin
 
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Colin King
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Joined: 16 Oct 2001
Posts: 3683
Location: Clotho, MN

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Clutch RR Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Thank you, Russ!

Colin
 
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