More pictures of the oliver rollover after adjustments

[allen in texas]

It's gonna work. I just need to drill 4 more holes
 

[allen in texas]

after it's bolted up
 

[allen in texas]

All I need now is a 3x8 cylinder. I was going to get it today but I forgot. I was doing stuff I needed to do instead of stuff I wanted to do.
PS, you just won't believe how many things on a plow mash smash or bring blood.
I sure could have used some help. this stuff is heavy.
 

[J. Schwiebert]

Looks live a 6341 plow. We sold several of those here in flat Northwest Ohio. FYI for you. When you get your cylinder you may want to add restrictors to each port. Oliver recommended this to control the speed of the roll over. Can you lift the plow?
 

[allen in texas]

[JD Seller]

Allen I have a few questions??? Why did you have to drill any holes??? I have switched 5 or 6 Oliver/White plows from one width to another and it was just moving things to the correct bolt holes that where already in the plow beam. In you first posting before you had done anything you showed the top of the beam and it had the three sets of holes that usually adjusted them from 14,16,18 inches.

Also on the regular plows I adjusted you left the front plow bottom alone and moved each one back closer. It looks like you did it the other way. Is this because it is a roll over plow? or did you go the wrong way???

Maybe Delta Red can answer me as he has had roll over plows for years. I always wanted one but they are not very common around here.

One local dealer did have a fully mounted six bottom roll over. He got it in a dealer close out deal and had to take all the new equipment the other dealer had. We never did figure out what kind of tractor would pick it up. We tried a White 2-180/MFWD with a full set of front end weights and it would stand straight up. He finally just used all the bottom parts off of it a scraped the rest of it.
 

[Michael Soldan]

Did those plows take an "Ace Bottom" plowshare? I have an old plow that I am sure was Cockshutt and parts of it look identical(not a rollover)
 

[allen in texas]

[allen in texas]

These are pics of the holes of the middle bottom. it is not supposed to be moved but I did it.
Hope this clears it up.
 

[allen in texas]

Here's a pic of the front bottom.


 

[DeltaRed]

JD,Those Olivers you left the 2nd bottom alone and adjusred the others to it to get the correct 'width'.The frame is drilled to accomdate that.Tractor wheels are moved to the correct width.What Allen did was to redrill the holes in order to move the plow bottoms over to avoid moveing the tractor wheels.That 'long' Oliver frame makes it possible to reposition the bottoms.As to the 6 bottom????Lots of 5 and 6 bottoms are used here.There is even a 7 bottom here that is pulled by a newer Agco/Allis MFWD.The owner is talking about adding another bottom....
 

[allen in texas]

"What Allen did was to redrill the holes in order to move the plow bottoms over to avoid moveing the tractor wheels"

Bingo!! Why didn't I say that? I "could" move my wheels out but it's a pain in the rear and I didn't wanna.

I guess I should comment on the 'torched off" place at the front of the frame. The previous owner had welded a frame to pull a packer. I ain't gonna pull a packer and it added about another 150 pounds to the plow. this thing is already pretty heavy. I'll grind it nice and pretty before I am done. You'll never know it was there.
 

[DeltaRed]

Allen,fix/replace that bent bolt on the
standard.that helps hold things together.For shear
bolts'use grade 5.use a 'nylock'nut on it.they will
come loose otherwise and shear faster because the
beam/side plates will tend to separate if not kept
tight.
 

[DeltaRed]

I would buy shear bolts a dozen or so at a time.I mounted a small toolbox on the 'headstock'.kept bolts/nuts;wrench,ratchet/socket;tapered punch;hammer,etc.Carried a sledgehammer in the cab.Even when the 'tripped' bottom was returned to 'home',it always require a few raps with the sledge.
 

[allen in texas]