Still Trying to get the 2N started

[wsmm]

Still unable to get the 2N started. New autolite plugs, using a test light that goes in the spark plug line shows plug is firing. Removing brass nut from bottom of carb has good gas flow out of it. When I crank it for a long period of time, gas will drip out of the carb air inlet. Carb was cleaned out in my parts washer using mineral spirits. Compression, tested on 3 & 4 cylinder, due to ease of access over 100 psi. When I pulled the spark plugs after trying to start it with no luck, I expected them to be soaking wet with gas, however they appeared to be dry. Did notice when I pulled it into the pole barn for the winter I was getting exhaust from behind the #4 and between the # 3 & 4 cylinder at the manifold. I running out of ideas to try to get this monster started and I need to start it so that I can move it out of barn to do some other work. Can't just roll it out as it has a back blade and a front loader.
Thanks for any and all help and suggestions,
Bill
 

[Bruce (VA)]

First, replace the plugs. You flooded it, they're fouled & it will be it next to impossible to start. You don't need to toss them; heat the tips for a few seconds w/ a propane torch to burn off the invisible spark-robbing deposits from today's additive filled gasoline........or wash them in lacquer thinner.

You need a strong battery to:

1. Close the solenoid

2. Spin the starter

3. Engage the bendix

4. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking.

Charge the battery. And, don't forget to clean all the grounds, to include the mating area between the starter & the block.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.


The usual cause of gas dripping out of the carb throat is operator error. While each N has it's own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is an updraft carb w/ a gravity fuel system; it is by it's very nature subject to flooding. Too much choke makes it happen.

Try this:

Remove the breather hose at the carb.

Spray starting fluid in the carb throat.

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. No choke!

In the future, let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.

" Did notice when I pulled it into the pole barn for the winter I was getting exhaust from behind the #4 and between the # 3 & 4 cylinder at the manifold"

It's possible, but not likely that the leak has resulted in a vacuum leak. When you get the tractor running, spray some carb cleaner around it & see if the engine speeds up. But, if it doesn't, you still need to fix it or you will get block erosion.

" Carb was cleaned out in my parts washer using mineral spirits."

That didn't get you much. They need to be soaked overnight in a very caustic solution w/ each passage blown out w/ compressed air. You might have a dirty carb.
75 Tips

 

[old]

Do a spark check at each plug wire. Make sure you have a blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more. If you do in fact have that then pull the air cleaner tube off and hold you hand over the air intake of the carb and spin it over. You should get a good pull of vacuum on you hand plus should get gas on your hand. Shoot it might even try to start if you do that then post back what you find
 

[HCooke]

Ditch the test light and use an old plug widened to 1/4" gap. Attach to each spark plug wire and ground the old plug to a bare spot on the head or manifold. With the tractor in neutral and the ignition on, crank and observe the spark. It should jump the 1/4" gap with a blue white spark. Report back.

If spark passes the above test, redo the carb. Soak overnight in a can of Berryman's. Before reassembling blow each passage out with compressed air and rubber tipped air gun.
 

[Den N Ms]

en N Ms

12-23-2012 12:45:34
184.41.137.166



Report to Moderator

As I told you, To check and be sure of the spark quality.Your light won't check the spark intensity.
wsmm,Take one of the old plugs that you took out and stretch the gap open to 1/4"ground the base to the head and check the spark.Or just use a Phillips screw driver stuck into the plug wire boot and hold it 1/4" away from a head bolt or plug base.The spark should jump the 1/4" gap and be blue or blue/white. Your light will not tell how good the spark is.

[Reply]
 

[russb wa]

Bill, I don't recall the name, stay, limit, or some other type of chains, that go from the end of the lift arms up to about where the top link is. If you had those you could jack up the blade and chain it up. Probably do similar with the front bucket/lift.

If you just gotta have the space, take the blade off and drag it out of the way. Then you can drag the tractor backwards with car or truck. Just if you have to.
 

[old]

Over the years and buy lots of non-running tractors I have learned a guy can use a simple com-a-long and some creative thinking and get a loader up and off the gro8nd so one can load them up on a trailer. Most loaders have a brush guard built in so you simply hook the com-a-long to the brush guard and the lowest arm /.part of the loader and pull it up and off the ground and maybe use a 2nd com-a-long to hold the bucket from rolling forward. Same can be done by removing the center link and putting a com-a-long in its place and then you can get a back blade up