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OT/Ford

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retired farmer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 5:30 pm    Post subject: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Was coming back from flailing cornstalks two weeks ago with the 1986 Ford 250 pickup, 460 with automatic transmission when the headlights dimmed several times and then stayed on bright. Dash needle never moved from center. Did it two nights in a row. Took the alternator off and had it checked, it was good. Took it to our COOP the next morning to have them replace both battery cables. They did and it seemed to start a little better. Lights dimmed several more times that night coming back from the field. Took it to back to COOP and told them to check the electrical system. Told them you had to lift up on the steering wheel a little to get the ignition to work. Called the next day and said they couldn't find anything. I told them to replace the headlight switch and fix the four way flashers. Went to pick it up and the battery was dead and whoever worked on must have been mad because they couldn't figure out how to start it and managed to break the shift lever casting in half so you couldn't shift the transmission. Left it set there for a week until I could find another good used steering column. Put it in and the battery was dead again. They jumped it and checked the battery, said it was good. Drove it back to the house and went to start it the next morning, battery dead again. Jumped it and it started right up. Went to start it yesterday and it was dead again. I pulled the positive cable and put a volt meter between it and the solenoid and have about a five volt draw with everything shut off. I am not much of an electrician when it comes to vehicle electrical problems. Anyone have an idea what might be drawing the battery down so quickly? I did find one body bolt laying on top of the air cleaner that they had taken out of something and didn't put back. Haven't had time to see where if might go. I know the battery and alternator are good. Thanks.
 
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Dalet
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Location: Minnesota

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 5:33 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

1. You allow the Coop mechanics to mess with your truck.
2. You have a lot of work trying to figure out what those monkeys did.


I only allow the Coop to put tires on my vehicles. I watch them do it. They aren't paid well.
 
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acken fromwisc
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 5:37 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

When I had a problem like this, I pulled one fuse at a time to see where the draw was from.
 
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retired farmer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 5:43 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Live and learn. They have two good people there and they evidentally didn't work on it. They have hired several new guys since their business is increasing and I think they just pulled them off the street and had them work on it. Have always had very good luck with them till now.
 
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Walt Davies
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Clock. It never stops running. All new cars are like that it won't
pull a battery down. You most likely have a dead cell in the
battery.
Walt
 
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rusted nuts
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 5:59 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Well if you had to lift up on the steering wheel a little to start it. I woulding be looking at that 1st.
 
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retired farmer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 6:27 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I knew what caused that problem, wear in the tilt steering head, switch wasn't pushing a rod down far enough to make contact with the switch on the lower column. I replaced the whole steering column the other day. Thanks tho.
 
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retired farmer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 6:33 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

No clock, only a radio and heater and both are shut off. That is what I thought about the battery too but they checked it with a fancy tester and it showed ok. Everything had worked fine for years until the headlights dimmed on me. I guess I should have replaced the headlight switch myself, still don't know if that cured the first problem. Thanks.
 
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retired farmer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 6:41 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Hadn't thought about doing that. Haven't been driving it since I got it back and then it turned cold so haven't had a chance to look at anything yet. Never had many electrical problems over the years so don't have much experience with trouble shooting. Thanks.
 
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rusted nuts
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:04 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Did ya replace the switch or use the same one from the old column?
 
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Dachshund
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:04 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

A leaky windshield.....

No, really! Your's is probably not new enough, but
my F150 was doing some of the things yours is
doing. Come to find out, there is a "brain box"
under the dash that controls a lot of the
electrical stuff. Even a small leak can have water
find it's way down to the "box". I replaced the
windshield, and problem solved (it was cracked
anyway).
 
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BushogPapa
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:16 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote


My bet is that there IS a Diode that is bad in the Regulator..I don't care what those guys said...(since you find a 5v drain at the battery)..

Intermittent Open-Cirtcuit in the battery is common (New or Old)..
Test that battery, when it is "Dead" and see if it really is...

Too often, 1/2 hr later, that "Dead" battery will start the truck right up..if it is an intermittent open..
 
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retired farmer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Used the one that was on the new,used column that I got from the junkyard.
 
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retired farmer
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:51 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

COOP did say that the battery showed a little overcharge, 15v instead of 14.7. I went to start it yesterday about noon and when I hit the switch the starter tried to turn over slowly and then quit. I could hear the solenoid click. I got the volt meter and put on the battery and it showed about ten and a half volts. I put the charger on it for a couple of hours and checked it when I got back and it still showed about ten and a half volts. I unhooked the positive cable and put the charger on it again. That is when I discovered the five volt draw with everything turned off. Checked it again and it was up to where it was supposed to be. Haven't tried it again. Left the cable undone. Too cold out to work.
 
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2012 7:59 pm    Post subject: Re: OT/Ford Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Switch your meter to milliamps. Volts doesn"t tell you much in this case. From there, start pulling fuses and fusible links until the draw drops below 15 milliamps. Look for odd stuff like glove box lights or stuck power seat switches.
 
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