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Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleeves


 
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FarmerHR
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 8:42 pm    Post subject: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleeves Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Rebuilding the engine on a 1948 8N with front mount distributor and the electrical system converted to 12 volts.
The engine kit I purchased said to oil the rings, pistons and cylinders before assembling.
For the main bearings I used Lubri Plate No 105 Motor Assembly Grease. I plan to use this material on the rod bearings also.
Should I also use this material when assemblig the rings on the pistons, the pistons and for a coating on the cylinder bore rather than coating them with motor oil ?
I really appreciate any help you can give me. This site is terrific !
Thank You
 
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McBride
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Use it on everything.
 
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Royse
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Some of the guys with more experience will be along shortly,
but that is what I've always done. (mostly on cars)
Then spin the engine without starting until I have oil pressure
before attempting to start it.
 
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McBride
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I was already here.
 
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Tom N MS
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:24 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Not saying do this on an N (but I probably would for my own)---- yrs. ago I use to repair small engines all the time -I used STP engine oil treatment to coat all internal parts surfaces, when re-assembling.
 
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ASEguy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:38 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I use Lubriplate on mains, rods and cam bearings so you have more than boundry lubrication at start-up. Engine oil for pistons, rings and the liners. New cam may have break-in lubricant for the lobe/lifter area and procedure for camshaft break-in to reduce wear.
 
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NOXJohn
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:53 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I use assembly grease on everything. It does not run off and will provide lubrication until oil starts to circulate. Oil will run off and provide very little if any lubrication at start up. The only place I use something different is to pack the oil pump. For that I use chassis grease. I also used STP in the old days but I feel that modern assembly grease is better. However STP would be better then regular oil.
 
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Ken(Ark)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 6:57 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Farmerhr wrote:

For the main bearings I used Lubri Plate No 105 Motor Assembly Grease. I plan to use this material on the rod bearings also.

Should I also use this material when assemblig the rings on the pistons, the pistons and for a coating on the cylinder bore rather than coating them with motor oil ?



We have always used Lubriplate on everything except the rings and wrist pins , which we would submerge in a small bucket of motor oil then let the excess drip off for a few minutes .

Bigger concern was wiping the cylinder with a clean white rag and solvent . Fine honing grit will get trapped in the cross hatch where the oil is suppose to be . Wiping with an oily rag will not dislodge the fine particles .The grit will erode the moving parts and shorten the lifespan . Wipe the cylinder with motor oil after cleaning .
 
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showcrop
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:06 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Ken(Ark) wrote:
(quoted from post at 07:57:33 01/01/13)
Farmerhr wrote:

For the main bearings I used Lubri Plate No 105 Motor Assembly Grease. I plan to use this material on the rod bearings also.

Should I also use this material when assemblig the rings on the pistons, the pistons and for a coating on the cylinder bore rather than coating them with motor oil ?



We have always used Lubriplate on everything except the rings and wrist pins , which we would submerge in a small bucket of motor oil then let the excess drip off for a few minutes .

Bigger concern was wiping the cylinder with a clean white rag and solvent . Fine honing grit will get trapped in the cross hatch where the oil is suppose to be . Wiping with an oily rag will not dislodge the fine particles .The grit will erode the moving parts and shorten the lifespan . Wipe the cylinder with motor oil after cleaning .


Just to emphasize Ken's post, I don't remember where, but in one of my shop manuals or in the instructions that came with a sleeve kit, there was a strong emphasis on washing the cylinders with soapy water after honing because oil will not remove the fine particles.
 
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TheOldHokie
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

showcrop wrote:
(quoted from post at 11:06:00 01/01/13)
Ken(Ark) wrote:
(quoted from post at 07:57:33 01/01/13)
Farmerhr wrote:

For the main bearings I used Lubri Plate No 105 Motor Assembly Grease. I plan to use this material on the rod bearings also.

Should I also use this material when assemblig the rings on the pistons, the pistons and for a coating on the cylinder bore rather than coating them with motor oil ?



We have always used Lubriplate on everything except the rings and wrist pins , which we would submerge in a small bucket of motor oil then let the excess drip off for a few minutes .

Bigger concern was wiping the cylinder with a clean white rag and solvent . Fine honing grit will get trapped in the cross hatch where the oil is suppose to be . Wiping with an oily rag will not dislodge the fine particles .The grit will erode the moving parts and shorten the lifespan . Wipe the cylinder with motor oil after cleaning .


Just to emphasize Ken's post, I don't remember where, but in one of my shop manuals or in the instructions that came with a sleeve kit, there was a strong emphasis on washing the cylinders with soapy water after honing because oil will not remove the fine particles.


I'd just add that most shop manuals recommend against using a solvent as it simply embeds the grit and makes it harder to remove. Wash with hot soapy water and rinse well with clean water.

TOH
 


Last edited by TheOldHokie on Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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Fuddy Duddy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:27 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I aways dipped my pistons in STP. Then let them lay on a metal cooking tray for a minute so some of it could run off. Lots of products out now that are basically the same such stuff. Lucas oil treatment would work. I'd use 90 weight gear oil before I would use motor oil.
I've haven't yet done an 'N' yet. On old car engines i would have an old distributor with the gear removed. I would stick it down in the distributor hole and turn it with a drill. That will get the oil pump primed and though all the lines so it wont be a dry start first cranking.
I'd like to hear from someone who knows is there a way to prime the pump on an'N'?
 
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Ken(Ark)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:58 am    Post subject: Re: Lubricant for Assembling Rings, and Pistons in New Sleev Reply to specific post Reply with quote

TheOldHokie wrote:


I'd just add that most shop manuals recommend against using a solvent as it simply embeds the grit and makes it harder to remove. Wash with hot soapy water and rinse well with clean water.

TOH



I would agree that hot water and a quality detergent is probably better .

I never liked pulling a block from the hot vat and rinsing with water even though that's just how the process works . The iron would flash rust since there was no oil in the pours (turn a yellow/green color). I always thought that was terrible for the machined surfaces , but its probably so minor that it has no real effect .

On the cylinder bores I would not recommend using an oily weak solvent like mineral spirits or diesel . 30 years ago we used gasoline but I use lacquer thinner or xylene these days . It doesn't seem to instantly rust when it evaporates . Maybe I am just too slow with the water thing . Around here we always have a high humidity level ?

From a visual inspection of the amount of material on the wiping rag I would assume that the majority is removed .

That's just my personal observation . It would be interesting to hear other views .

P.S. On a similar topic , a rifle cleaning kit will remove amazing amounts of gunk from the oil galleries .
 
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