1942 Allis Chalmers C brakes

[Larry Hardesty]

I have been working to rescue my deceased brother-in-laws 1942 Allis Chalmers C from the salvage yard. It was a good tractor until it sat outside for a number of years.

I finally got the brake out on the left side and am working on the brake on the right side. I am a bit baffled how the design engineers expected one to get the pins out that hold the brakes, but I managed. The manual says just take the pins out. Well, not quite that easy.

Anyway, it looks like the drums the band brakes wrap around are pretty rusty. Do they need to be taken out (and how?) and taken to a machine shop for turning. Or, is that necessay on an old tractor?

The engine is stuck, so I have a long ways to go.

Thanks

Larry Hardesty
 

[Bob Bancroft]

We didn't used to replace them unless absolutely necessary. It's a lot of work! What I have done is run the tractor in gear-jacked up- wheel turning, and held a small surface grinder against the drum just enough to remove rust, etc.
 

[old]

Is the engine locked up due to water going down the exhaust pipe or just from sitting??? If the cylinder are not full of water and are dry and just stuck from sitting fill them with ATF and wait a week or so. Then set a 12 volt battery on it and use short fast taps of the starter and it may well pop free. Done many and out of over 20 locked up engines only 2 or 3 did not free up
 

[Larry Hardesty]

Yes, it does look like a lot of work! I will try the surface grinder idea once I get the tractor running.

Thanks

Larry
 

[Larry Hardesty]

I have not opened up the head to see, but when I got it, the tractor had a can over the exhaust. I knew that I would not get to for awhile so I put Marvel Mystery oil in each of the cylinders for quite awhile and have tried turning it over the crank from time to time with no luck.

The transmission was full of water because the boot around the shifter was long gone. The left brake was stuck, and I would not be surprised if the clutch is not stuck too. Just slowly getting to things.

Thanks

Thanks
 

[steve(ill)]

to get the pins out, remove the seat and look at the back side of the BLIND HOLE. Guess about where it is and drill a 3/8 hole about 1/4 inch deep and you will hit the end of the pin. YOu need an air chisle and a punch on the back side to push them out. 1000 quick blows with WD40 penetrant and the come fast. C clips are on the insides first ! Grab one end of the brake shoe with a #9 wire, tie it to a 3/4 ton chain fall on a roof rafter and pull.... helps to get the mouse nest all out first.
 

[Larry Hardesty]

I have three of the four pins out (both on the left side and one on the right side). If I cannot get the 4th pin out (why is it always the last bolt or pin that is so hard?), I will drill the hole. I do have the clamps off...they are wire clamps...I have not seen something like that before.

The last pin is loose, just hard to get it out. Oh yes, I am having trouble getting the adjusting screw out too. I tried my impact screwdriver but no luck. I put a lot of penetrating oil on it and letting it soak overnight. I don't have much for heat...just a propane torch..but I did try some heat too.

Good tip on getting the brake out. The brake on the otherside had rusted in two pieces, which made it easier to get out. Yes, lots of junk on both sides.

Thanks
 

[Dick L]

The last bolt or pin is the hardest because == If it was the first one you wouldn't be to the last one yet. (:^D

Take a trip thru the pictures at the link to see how I did one years ago.
Click Here

 

[Larry Hardesty]

Nice pictures. Hey, why don't I just take my tractor over to you and you take all the pictures you want while restoring it! Looks a lot easier .

Thanks for the pictures.
 

[old]

MMO while it will work is not as good as ATF and if you really want something good use a mix of ATF and acetone 5-/50. As for pulling the head that may not be needed. I have as I said done many and most of the time I do not pull the heads and have many I use now that I got with locked up engines
 

[Larry Hardesty]

Thanks, I will give it a shot. This afternoon I did get the 4th brake pin out and the brake shoe out of the right side.

I am not sure what I will do next. Both rear wheels are off and there was a considerable oil leak by the hubs of both back tires. I assume there are seals there that are bad. I do have the part and service manuals.

Also, I need to check and see if the clutch is stuck. I have read the manual to see what is needed there.

I suppose before I go too much further I really need to see how bad the engine is. It still will not turn over via the crank.

Thanks for all the help and further thoughts are alwasy welcome. I am not an experienced mechanic and most of my other tractors are Farmall"s. So, I still have lots to learn about working on this Allis C. It is too good of a tractor to junk it out.

It does appear there are lots of places for things to get into (rubber boot on the shifting level; couple holes in the brake area). Looks like it is a tractor that should never have been parked outside.

Also, over the years it was outside, some one stole the carb and the magneto. I do have replacements but not sure how good they are.

Larry
 

[old]

Just to let you know I have 2 1946 AC-C parts tractors here and one I use from time to time. These are wet sleeve engines so many times after sitting as long time the sleeve seals like to leak
 

[Larry Hardesty]

Good to know. Where are you located. I am near Kearney, Nebraska
 

[old]

I am in Missouri the Lake of the Ozarks area. Years ago I live in the great big town of Leigh Ne Back then it was all of 500 people
 

[Larry Hardesty]

Been in your area, but probably 40+ years ago.

Larry