Leaning wheel to axel extension (update)

[Mr. T. Minnesota]

Forum members,
When it gets into the 30 degree temperature range in Minnesota, it is time to work on the 8N.
I attempted to remove the hub from the 8N this afternoon and it seems to be hung up on the spindle. Is that the way they come off, with persuasion like with a hammer? I need the SOP on what to expect when removing the hub to replace the bearings. It comes out about 3/4 to 1 inch out and then it stops. Any help is appreciated!
Novice hub puller:)
Mr. T. Minnesota
 

[Royse]

Normally, remove the cover, cotter key, Nut, Washer and front bearing.
Hub slides right off, rear bearing and seal included.
I'd think you have some damage to a spindle and/or rear bearing.
Have you tried lifting it upwards and rocking it back and forth to get it off?
Can you clean most of the grease out and see anything with a light?
 

[Dell (WA)]

Mr T........putchur wheel back on yer hub so you have MORE LEVERAGE and wiggle'r back'n'forth. Remember neoprene seal faces the spindle. ........Dell
 

[Mr. T. Minnesota]

Royce,
I did attempt to tilt, tip, and pull,but to no avail. In the space behind the hub there is a lot of damage. Looks like the seal is gone. There also appears to be damage on the actual spindle. Seems to be a concave groove cut into the spindle close to the spindle extension end. It is a 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide and about 1/4 inch deep. Does not appear just new bearings are going to solve the problem?? Any other thoughts or hints are appreciated!
Mr. T. Minnesota
 

[Royse]

Can you tell if the hub is damaged or not?
If it is, I would just pull the spindle with it on and replace both.
If not, maybe you can get the rear bearing to pop out to get the hub off.
Gear puller maybe? There would be an obvious risk of breaking the hub.
 

[Bill Rowles]

Sounds like you may have waited too long to fix a bad rear (inside) bearing and it galled thereby welding itself to the spindle. The best approach would be to replace the hub and spindle if you have a local source of used tractor parts. If not, you may be able to use a gear puller to remove the hub and an accetylene torch to cut off the seized inner race. If the grease seal area of the hub and/or spindle are worn/damaged to make it impossible to install a seal, you still may need to replace the whole assembly to keep grease in and dirt and water out of the bearings.
 

[Mr. T. Minnesota]

Bill,
Thanks for the input. There is a used tractor parts business about 50 miles away. I will give him a call today. Is there any difference between the N tractors as far as these assemblies go? I will let him know it is an 8N.
I will take the old one apart to access damages after I get a new-used one. Just purchased the tractor this summer. PO must have used it a lot.
I am guessing that this wear groove also weakened the spindle. I do a fair amount of heavy FEL wood moving. It would have been a surprise to have it snap under load. Any other thoughts or hints are appreciated.
Mr. T. Minnesota
 

[Bill Rowles]

I think all 8N are the same.....but if others disagree, hopefully they will say so here. The 9N/2N will not work. Your used parts source person may have an opinion about interchangeability too, but be carefull because sometimes the person on the phone or behind the counter knows less than you and is willing to guess if he can sell a part......I would take the old one with me on the 50 mile drive to match it up before buying. Be carefull because the left and right are not interchangable so check the top of the new spindle carefully to be sure they give you the correct side.
 

[Paul in MN]

Look carefully at the position of the woodruff keyway compared to the direction of the spindle axle. This is where the left and right side spindles are different.

Even though badly abused, it might be possible to save the hub. You can take out a badly damaged inner bearing race with an arc welder (stick or MIG) by welding a good hot continual bead around the inner circumference of the race. The welding shrinks the race and it comes out easily. An Oxy torch on that same race will probably nick the hub, as you usually can't see through all the rust, muck, and buggered metal.

Both the hub and spindle (and grease seal) can be ordered from this site.

Paul in MN
 

[souNdguy]

the bearing may have seized and galled the back of the spindle and hanging in a groove now. I'd thump it with a mallet.. but I bet you need a hub and spindle..