Update on overheat problem

[Phil960]

Radiator shop called today and informed me that the radiator was completely plugged. As most of you stated, the symptoms indicated a flow problem and you were correct. After rodding it out he determined it was beyond repair, said it looked like it had never been flushed. With that said, we talked about a recore, a bit pricey compared to an aftermarket radiator but I chose to go ahead with a recore of the original just because it is the original and I won't have to worry about fit or clearance issues or inferior workmanship or materials with an aftermarket. Many of you may disagree with this theory but I figure the original lasted nearly 60 years and the shop doing the work is a trusted source and completely stand behind their work. Plus it's a local mom and pop shop that been in business for years and I like helping local people when I can.

Another issue I have been dealing with is repairing the power steering cylinder and linkage.
With the help of a member here, Forddoc, I will be able to fix all of the issues for around 100.00. That's a far cry from the 770.00 for a rebuilt one. The sleeve assy. has been beat on or someone hit something hard and spun the wheels to full lock with enough force to bend and egg shape the housing. Forddoc was kind enough to talk with me about the problem and let me know that he had a jig made in his shop to reshape these assemblies. The price was extremely reasonable so off those parts went this morning. A set of seals from the dealer and I should be good to go.

I want to thank ALL of you who have helped me diagnose and repair this tractor. This site is great because of the people on it and the willingness to help a newbie like me is very much appreciated. I'm sure I'll have more questions for you as we go along so thanks for your help and patience.
 

[Royse]

" Many of you may disagree with this theory..."

I won't! I think the originals are better quality too.
Glad you're getting it all fixed up.
Posts some pictures when you get a chance.
 

[Phil960]

Oh Lordy!! Posting pics will require another tutorial, but I'll try.
 

[Fordfarmer]

I agree 100% - recoring the original is the better option. I put a new aftermarket in a relative's NAA...a job I hope to never have to do again! The fit was terrible.
 

[Hobo,NC]

Just so you will have a reference flow test the rad are ask the rad man to show you (shadtree way) how the repaired one flows when you pick it up... When faced with your type of issue I flow test them on the tractor car are what ever it saves LOTS of time and aggravation...

Simple flow test Hold your hand over the outlet fill the rad with water,,, remove your hand from the outlet it should dump the water in about 3 sec. ( I've never quantified any drain time rates, I just go with my gut feeling,,, anything over 4/5 sec throws up a flag to me). If it drains slowly it has partly blocked tubes. Anytime I have a heating issue that flairs up while driving are work'n I go straight for a flow test....


Every rad you can get your hands on flow test it to build knowledge of how a good one should flow.. Even if I replace a leaker I take the old one out back and flow test it...


What I found on the net

Radiators can be tested on a radiator test stand, these are expensive machines so not many shops have them or working ones at least. A find most shops that repair radiators just plug the bottom end ( cross flow turn it on its side) and fill the radiator with water and then unplug the bottom and watch the flow of water coming out. You really need to know the flow rate of a new radiator for your application as a base line. A big Detroit Diesel would be about 110 GPM (Gallons Per Minute) vs a pickup at about 55 GPM.

Using those figgers "a pickup at about 55 GPM." It looks to me that around a gal a second would be excellent flow...
 

[souNdguy]

i think re-core is the way to go if you can swing it. Better than a new style low density core.

soundguy
 

[sotxbill]