old tanker ih460 wiring

[ldb]

Rick, thanks again for the feedback. I was looking at the wiring on the gen. and it is dirrerent than the picture you sent. In the picture the 2nd wire on top to the right jumps to the terminal on the back of gen. On mine 2 wires coming out, one goes to + terminal on the coil and the 2nd wire goes to ign switch as far as I can tell. I was trying to follow the wires to the inst panel, but didn't have much luck. The wires under the panel are welded togather from the short and couldn't follow them thru to the gages. I was just curious as to my wires on the alt. doesn,t run the same way. Didn't get much time on it today. I took the hood off so that I could get to the underside of inst panel. I did find a used tractor parts place that makes up wiring harness for old tractors in Fredericktown MO. They were asking $135, thats a lot cheaper than the $450 I was quoted earlier, but I can build it myself a lot cheaper. Larry
 

[tntleake]

460 wire harness available in ebay for about 200.00 and I think steiner might have them
 

[oldtanker]

OK for what you are doing eliminate the ign wire from the generator/VR. Run a separate wire from the ignition switch to the coil. That takes care of the ignition. Then the big wire to the amp meter to the battery terminal on the starter. Then the little wire to the ignition switch.....not to the terminal that connects the ign wire. After that you can follow the wiring diagram for the rest, just ignore the charging and ignition system on the diagram.

Even if you replace all the wiring with different color wires, solder and shrink tube the connections it should cost under 50 bucks to rewire that tractor. If you do it yourself print out the wiring diagram and mark it with the color wires you use for future reference.

Rick
 

[the tractor vet]

I have Farmall 460 to wire here in a couple days and we will se how long this takes . There really is not that much to them , Three wires out to the engine two for the gen. and one for the coil and if it came with a horn then a forth wire . Then from the voltage reg. ya have two wires coming up from there , one wire to the amp. meter and one to the lightswitch . Pull power from the amp meter to the Key switch . Your not wiring a 747 here . Ya want to do it in the correct colors then give me a couple days and i will dig out my computer disk and bring them up as i have them on a computer disk.
 

[oldtanker]

[farmallboy15]

When I did a 560 a few days ago it was a major pain... I also used shrink tube on all the connectors.. There is more than you think. Took about 5 hours.
 

[oldtanker]

[gene bender]

I got some wire covering that expands when you push it then after all wires ar in place you pull and it will shrink down and sure looks factory. I got 50ft with shipping 30some bucks and along with shring tubing looks very good when done its iberglass stuff so it wont get stiff. Takes paint well when done. Have made several harnesses for the As and Bs and still have some left also wired a SC with alt converted to 12v
 

[the tractor vet]

Not really , this is not my first rodeo on building wiring harnesses . I have done many , just how well do you want one one the works and looks ok or do you want a factory one as i can do both . I use extra heavy duty ends not the cheap stuff ya get a the car parts stores , i have the compound crimpers to do the crimpimg and they get the heat shrink . I have the Delco 56 plug ins and the plastic male female connectors . I build the harness off the tractor on a lay out board and i use a 2 x8 foot of 3/4 plywood and finish nails as terminal posts . Use a piece of 1/2 conduit for the rolls of wire and place the color correct and ga. size on it . Blue wire in a 10 Ga. (yea i know the book calls for 12Ga. ) for the hot lead off the gen to the reg. a 14 Ga. in yellow to the field from the gen to the reg. and so on . Now i will admit that if the certain wire color originally had a color tracer added that i do not have as i am to cheap to lay out that much extra to get a special order in the amount they will do this . But i do have ever color of wire that you can buy in 16 gauge thru 10 ga. and for alt. equiped i have the blue in 8 Ga. along with red black and white Oh and orange.
 

[ldb]

Thanks for all he advice and suggestions. Steiner was one of the places that i called for harness and they quoted the $450, must have some gold in that wire.
 

[the tractor vet]

Well from what My friend told me that for a Farmall it was 200 thru Case I H and IF it was a international it was 8 something. So he opted to have me make one . . We will see how long it takes and how much it cost in wire and supplys .
 

[the tractor vet]

Yep I get all my wiring supplys from Terminal Supply .They have the heavy duty terminals along with the Delco 56 male female ends and they HAVE THE plastic plugs for the 56 Delco.
 

[ldb]

If I could find just a simple wiring diagram with an alternator instead of a generator and VR also with the proper gage wire sizes I would be good to go. Larry
 

[Janicholson]

The following is (I think) what you need.
Using a Delco 10SI alternator. To wire a Delco 10SI First remove the generator and both wires going to it from the regulator. Looking at the regulator there will be either one or two wires remaining. If two, one will be from a terminal with BAT on it. The other will have an L on it. The BAT terminal connects to the amp gauge output terminal. It is going to be replaced, so take it off. The L terminal will connect to the Light switch through a fuse. It will be shortened and connected to the amp meter where the BAT wire was hooked. If the regulator only has a BAT connection, it will be connected to the Amp gauge output terminal. A diode, or a marker lamp bulb, or a 10 ohm resistor is the only other thing needed, Use insulated spade terminals for the small connections, or put shrink tubing over them to keep them separate. The diode, Radio shack part #276-1661, or bulb, or resistor, goes in series with a wire from #1 spade terminal on the Delco to the ignition (before the ballast resistor, if it has one, with the band on the diode toward the alternator. The diode can be placed anywhere as long as it is not going to rub on metal, and should be taped up or protected with big shrink tubing.
The #2 Alt terminal should be connected with a short 12ga.wire to the Big output terminal on the alt. A new heavy wire from that big terminal will now go to the amp meter output side mentioned above (must be 10 gauge). The amp meter leads must be swapped so it reads charge correctly with the battery polarity changed. (all leads switched side to side. The battery must be reversed to negative ground. If not the smoke will be let out of the alternator as soon as it is hooked up. The ignition coil should be reversed so the + terminal goes to the points, and the - terminal gets voltage. No other changes are needed. Jim
 

[ldb]

Jim, thank you for the info. The generator had already been replaced previously with a Delco Remy, I not sure if it is a 10SI or not yet (almost bedtime)and the regulator is gone also. The alternator has 3 wires hooked on it. I was following what you said on the I-460 wiring diagram, this diagram has the generator on it, I couldn't find a diagram with an alt. anywhere. That helps very much. Larry