Oliver 770 injection pump gear removal

[Stevewatr]

Hello, I am having trouble removing the gear from the pump drive shaft. I was able to remove the pump because the whole gear/shaft assemblly slid out the front, but I know during re-assemblly, in order to be sure the umbrella seals go in correctly, I think I need to insert the shaft into the pump first, then install the pump, but because the tractor gear does not fit through that hole on the back, I think it has to come off. There were two bolts going through holes in the gear, they appear to help index the gear to the shaft, then there is a large nut on the end of the shaft, but it will not budge. The only way to hold the shaft, is by the tang on the end. I"m worried I might snap the shaft at the skinny part. Is there a trick to removing this nut??
 

[J.Wondergem]

I'm not acquainted with the 770. Is this pump completely different than a 88, and Super 88??
 

[OLarry from MD]

Assuming you have the new style pump. I put them on with the shaft in the tractor.There is a tool to do the job,but don't have one.Put the seals on and pack grease between them and wrap with slipery paper and put rubber bands around.Then wait till the next morning and remove the paper and slip the pump on.
 

[Stevewatr]

So if I understand you correctly, You leave the gear, and shaft in the tractor, sticking out the back of where the pump bolts to, then you slide the pump onto the shaft? Is it tricky to get it to line up this way?
 

[Stevewatr]

I'm pretty sure it is the same, just the plungers in the 88, and 880 pumps are larger diameter. That is assuming you have a Roosa Master aka Stanadyne pump. Some of the Oliver's used a Bosch pump that has the injector lines that attach on top of the pump.
 

[J. Schwiebert]

The Roosa Master Pumps were not used untill 1960 except for less than 50 Super 77 tractors
 

[Dieseltech]

I use a rag on the gear and impact to remove the nut, then pull hub from shaft. Hopefully you timed the pump before removal, or you won't know if crank is on cyl 1 or 6. Make sure pump brass tube is ok, if grooved by seals it should have a new one epoxied in housing.
 

[Stevewatr]

According to my Fleetline service manual, only 49 of the Super 77's had the Roosa pump, and the early ones were model D's, several were replaced in the feild to the improved model DB. The DB pumps became standard equipment on the 770's begining with serial number 89 980-700. The change on model 660, and 880's came later. The Bosch and Roosa pumps are not interchangeable.
 

[Stevewatr]

Thank you! Sounds like you've done a few. I did some homework, and learned that brass tube is called a "pilot tube", and it is cheap to buy, as is the seal kit. As for timing, I found the TDC mark on the flywheel, and pulled the energy cell plug on #1 to be sure it was on it's way up on a compression stroke ( finger in the hole test,lol). I could not find the FP mark on the flywheel. I think it is supposed to be 24 to 26 degres before TDC?? I'm betting it is just covered in crud. I feel confident I can get the motor barred over to the right place. I'm going to try and include a link to a video of my project. I'd love to have an experienced set of eyes see what I'm seeing in this pump. I have over 60 videos shot, but I'll try and add a link to the one with me examining the internals.
Oliver 770 industrial tractor project part 63

 

[Dieseltech]

Will try to check it out later tonight. If you like call after 7 PM IN time, would rather visit on the phone. Have been rebuilding pumps since mid 70's. five seven four eight nine three four one seven two. You will need to make a timing line on the new retainer also.
 

[Stevewatr]

When I took it apart, I found it already has the upgraded weight retainer. I'd be happy to call you. May I have your first name? I feel kind of wierd calling a number and asking for "dieseltech" lol.
 

[J. Schwiebert]

No your pump is not timed to the FP mark. The FP mark is for the Bosch pumps which are timed to the start of injection. The Roosa Master pumps are timed to the end of injection. Post the model of the pump and check your fleetline manual to see how many degrees before TDC it is timed to. If you would have lined the timing marks in the pump up before you took the pump off you would have had the timing correct
 

[Stevewatr]

Maybe that's why I cannot find an FP mark on the flywheel? My pump model number is DBGFC627---1ED. I found in the manual where they mention timing for the pump, but the pump model is listed as DBGFC627---2BH or ---3BH. Somebody wrote in with pen "FP mark on flywheel", then it says "6 degrees BTDC end of injection. I think I got that FP idea out of an IT manual I also have. I also found the roller to roller dimension I was looking for. Do I need to special jig that you hook an air line up to in order to set the roller to roller dimension?? Another thing, tonite I went to remove the pilot tube, and it seemed like I was putting a lot of force on it in my 20 ton shop press, and it was not moving so I stopped. I read that the replacement pilot tube gets glues in??? Could this one be glues in? The pump was serviced by some one at some point, because it has the solid governor weight retainer. By the way, Thanks for helping.
 

[Dieseltech]

Will be home tonite in the shop, call and ask for Richard.
 

[Stevewatr]

Well, I got everything back together, and I think I did okay with the timing. But bad weather set in before I could try to start her. Just wanted to check in and let you guys know I made some progress.
Part 96