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Boling machine shop


 
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LLOYD MacLEOD
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Joined: 29 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:49 am    Post subject: Boling machine shop Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I am having trouble instaling load seals from boling.They just seem to large for the hole john deere 4030.I was wondering if anybody had the same trouble? Thank you in advance Lloyd
 
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tim s
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Location: Somerset Ohio

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 12:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Boling machine shop Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have been using them for years with out any trouble, I wonder if you may need to chamfer the hole a bit, may have an edge holding you from getting it started..
 
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Tx Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Boling machine shop Reply to specific post Reply with quote


Here's the spec's for the JD bushing.
R27018 BUSHING ADD 19.99 USD
Specification
Weight 0.13 LBS 0.06 Kg
Inside Diameter 1.004 IN
Outside Diameter 1.501 IN
Length 0.469 IN
 
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Tx Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Boling machine shop Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Tim S wrote:
(quoted from post at 15:40:57 01/20/13) I have been using them for years with out any trouble, I wonder if you may need to chamfer the hole a bit, may have an edge holding you from getting it started..


Tim
I'm aware of the advantage of using Boling bushings on 3020/4020. What is the advantage of Boling bushings on the later model tractors with the bushings that have a groove for the seals?
 
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tim s
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Boling machine shop Reply to specific post Reply with quote

The 4030 seals are like the 4020/3020 ones..
 
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Jethro Lilley
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Boling machine shop Reply to specific post Reply with quote

I have replaced these seals on 2510, 2640 and 4430 tractors. The trick is to bend the seal back in on itself to make the diameter smaller so it will go in place, then bend it back into original shape inside the groove. I used the round shank of a screwdriver and pressed down on the upper part of the seal until it molded back on itself, so to speak. Then I squeezed it together into the shape of a universal joint clip and easily placed it in the groove using needle-nose pliers, just like a univ. joint spring clip. Then I mold into place as well as I can with my fingers, then took a larger round shaft, inserted it and molded the seal back into its original shape inside the groove. Otherwise... its impossible to get it in. These seals are a very tough material and I never ruined one using this method. Just don't kink it. Make sure the load shaft is not worn or it will still leak... On my 2510 I finally went with an aftermarket bushing kit which utilizes an o-ring in place of that stinking hard bushing seal. I replaced the o-rings in mine by myself last spring in an hour and a half.
 
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