630

[caseanonymous]

I'm in need of a replacement carb for a 630. Does anyone know what carbs from other applications might fit? I ask because 530 630 ones are hard to find. (around here anyway).I can get one off a 660 combine but its backwards I could plumb some tubing around but want to try to avoid that. Any suggestions appreciated! thanks
 

[Joe Young]

Case used two different carburetors during the 630 production run.

Zenith - 0-12534
Marvel Schebler - TSX-799

In my opinion, the easiest and best route if your wallet will stand it is to buy a new Zenith replacement. I believe the current number 14996 is the correct replacement. It can be had for around $250.

I've attempted to rebuild several old carburetors, and sent several out for rebuild. In nearly all cases, they simply don't work well for me. As an example, I rebuilt a MS TSX-635, then replaced it with two other "professionally" re-built units. In all cases the tractor ran terribly. There was no way to get it set properly. Finally I installed a new replacement Zenith and the tractor starts and runs like a top. My experience has been similar on several other 40-60 year old tractors. Many of these old cores have been re-built numerous times and are junk.

Your milage may vary.....
 

[caseanonymous]

Joe thanks for the response. I agree on the rebuilding I have rebuilt mine twice and beleive it is about junk now. Places like bbalert offer only rebuilt ones and they dont have anyh instock you gotta send em yours so im obviously not gaining anything there. Maybe ill try the combine one or just have to bite the bullet. Are those part numbers case numbers? thanks
 

[Joe Young]

Actually those are the manufacture's part numbers. The Case numbers are below:

Case part no. A35817 = Zenith 0-12534

Case part no. G45774 = Marvel Schebler TSX-799
 

[Joe Young]

Another thought.... Those combine engines were designed to run at full throttle all the time, and may have a different carburetor design or different jets to accommodate that type of duty. Said another way, you may not be happy with the way the tractor runs at low to medium rpms.
 

[1031D]

Biggest thing with carbs is they need to be clean and tight. This garbage gas we have makes matters worse because letting them sit a couple months can gum them up, then if you have an aluminum carb it will eat the metal. I just did a VAC TSX114 and the idle circuit was clogged solid with what looked like pine sap. I agree that most of the exchanged rebuilds are fairly poor, had a customer put one on his Allis, followed by a brand new aluminum Zenith/Bendix and after the fuel ate it I rebuilt the rebuilt carb and it's been running fine since. The throttle shaft needs to be tight, sloppy clearances allow dirt in and lower the manifold vacuum. Same with needles, if they're loose or grooved it's real hard to get them to meter right. I just finished an article for OAN on this for the spring issue. Most people think rebuilding a carb involves splitting the halves, cleaning the bowl, replacing the float valve and bowl gasket, but they often forget about the 2-3 brass orifice plugs for the idle and load circuits, or to remove the main nozzle and make sure the holes are opened. When I do a carb I strip it down as far as I can, then it goes into a 180* wash cabinet. After that, if things still won't move I throw it in the oven at 450* for an hour. You would be amazed at all the junk you find hidden in the passages. After it's stripped down to the bare castings I fish all the holes out with a piece of welding wire followed by a pin tip high pressure blow gun and some carb cleaner. You have to make sure all the gasket surfaces are FLAT as many bowls are subject to overtightening and warp as does the intake mounting flange. I have yet to give up on a carb, especially a Marvel Schebler. Rebuilding a carburetor is getting to be a lost art.
 

[Eldo case]

You can use the 660 combine carb. I have the engine and all in a 500b and done it. Just have to take the throttle plate and chock plate out and end for end the shafts. Carburetor is made to go both ways.
 

[caseanonymous]

Thanks for the rebuilding advice. I might try doing it again but the mounting flange is cracked on this unit and I cant get it to seal to the manifold at all. Looks like i'll try the combine carb. I was able to price new ones joe but the ones I can find are in the 325 to 400 dollar range, but havent priced one strait thru zenith. In your guys opinion which make of carbeurator is better?
 

[Joe Young]

You're not looking hard enough at $325-400. My email is open.
 

[C. Amick]

Below is a link to a carburetor cross-reference list. You might be able to look through it for your carburetor model and see what other equipment manufacturers used the same carburetor on their equipment.
Carburetor Cross reference