Masseynut Help! 65 pump

[RichardR]

Am trying to get the hydraulic pump out but it won't clear the end of the pinion shaft. Am I doing something wrong? The pump has the MultiPower gear on the shaft and it may be the problem. Help is desperately needed.
 

[Masseynut(Australia)]

Hi Richard,
Not sure what you mean by "multi-power gear" on the shaft?
Only the main hydraulic piston pump can be removed thru the top aperature. If it still has the auxillary pump piggy-backing it, it will have to be removed.
I can't remember your application, but early Masseys had a single plate mounted to the main pump. It is possible to remove the auxillary pump from the plate, lift it out, then remove the plate and remove the main pump.
Later tractors had a "plated drive" bolted to the front of the main pump. You will need to split the tractor to remove this assembly and main pump.
If you only have the main pump to deal with, try removing the PTO shifter side cover, and sliding the engagement gear rearwards fully. There should be enough clearance between the pump and the pinion shaft to clear it.
Let us know your progress,
Evan.
 

[RichardR]

Thanks for getting back to me. The tractor is a MF 65D late model. It originally had Multipower, but the valve had been removed. The MP pump was still mounted on the top of the main pump. I removed the MP pump first then tried to get the main pump out. I could not get enough clearance to get the pump out of the case. The pump rear shaft will not clear the pinion shaft. I removed the left side plate but it didn't seem to help.

The bracket that mounts the MP pump to the main pump has bolts that come in from the front and are covered by the large gear that is on the front end of the pump shaft. It looks like the gear takes the place of the coupler that is on the front pump shaft in non-MP tractors. The MP drive gear seems to be the thing that keeps the pump from moving far enough forward to get the shaft to clear.

I hope that this explains a little better what my situation is. Please stay with me on this if you will. I really don't want to have to split the tractor.

Thanks,
Richard
 

[Masseynut(Australia)]

Ok, that explains it, Richard.
You will need to remove that gear from the pumpshaft before being able to remove the mounting plate. There will be a split (cotter) pin retaining the gear to the shaft. It may be difficult to gain access to remove it, but that pin retains the gear to the shaft. It is located between the gear teeth and the mounting plate and fits thru the gear and shaft.
Once the gear is removed, you will be able to slacken and remove the four nuts holding the mounting plate to the pump.
Another thought is that if you are not intending to refit the auxillary pump, as the multi-power is inoperative, you may be able to "trim" the plate with a narrow disc, to allow clearance. A little left of field I know, but it may save you having to split the tractor, and provided you wash the housing out thoroughly before reassembly, it could be the way to go.
Just a thought,
Evan.
 

[samn40]

These pumps do come out with the adaptor plate on them. I have been there and done that! It is a matter of trying different ways of lifting it out....I know how you feel as every one seems like it will never come out , then you take a different approach and it lifts clean out. Only problem is you can't remember which way you took out the last one!. I think the pump has to be lifted at the front first after you get it off the front drive...Good luck!
Sam
 

[RichardR]

Well, I'm back with an update of what happened. I tried to get the pump out the top and it absolutely refused to come. I ended up splitting the tractor behind the transmission and the pump came out easily. I disassembled the pump and found nothing broken or badly worn. Since the parts to rebuild the pump were over 50% of the cost of a pump, I replaced the pump with a new one. I put three new rings on the lift piston and new o-rings on the standpipe and under the lift cylinder. After putting it all back together it now works better than it has in the last 40 years.

In summary, all that I found was that all of the o-rings were hard and flat. I don't think that any of them could have held any pressure. I did all of the adjustments that the book called for with the cover off. The only adjustment that had to be done through the right-side inspection hole was the nut on the control valve shaft. My only conclusion is that the initial problem must have been associated with the pressure loss via the o-rings. The lift even stays up now and does not drift down. Thanks to all here for the assistance and moral support.