model L transmission

[sam henry]

I am looking at a model L for sale he says it runs good but has two bad bearings in the trans. has anyone ever taken one of these trans apart how big of job is it?
 

[Hotflashjr]

The trans is housing also is part of the differential. Most likely you will need to remove the rear wheels and both final drives to get the driveshafts out. You would need to remove those to get the full transmission out. To replace cones and races you will need to take it all apart. It's not a bad job but you need a way to jack up the back end of the tractor and a helper to help. The cast centers are over 100 lbs. as well as the final drives. I ended up rebuilding everything in my LA while I was "in there".
 

[Chuck H in Wi]

I just rebuild the rear end and transmission and final drives and clutch. If two bearings are bad, you better fiqure on all bearings, races and oil seals. The cost to do this is going between $500 to $600 to do this.
 

[DScott]

Yep, it's just like Hotflashjr said. Not that difficult but it takes some time. Below is a link to a photo ablum with some pics when I rebuilt my transmission.
I have a complete set of seals and bearings for a top shifter tranny that I never got around to using that I will make you a good deal on if your interested.
http://s403.beta.photobucket.com/user/scotd1/library/1938%20Model%20L
 

[sam henry]

ok thanks for the info guys
 

[sam henry]

ok thanks. if I get it I will be sure to contact you
 

[Hotflashjr]

My last post was a bit confusing now that I go back and read it. Step-by-step process would be remove the rear wheels and cast centers. You then would need to unbolt both final drives which will also remove the fenders. You can then take both drive shafts out of the differential from each side of the rear end housing. Then remove the propeller shaft cover from the motor to the transmission. You have to then remove both "rag joints" or fiber disks which connect the propeller shaft to the trans and clutch. I found you really have to do this to be able to get the trans out. It is a tight fit with the brake rod in there which can also be a pain to take out. I would leave that alone. I have muscled the trans in and out by hand alone without an engine hoist or overhead crane. It is a pain but can be done. To rebuild my trans with all new bearings, seals, new seals in the differential (no bearings), and all new seals and bearings in both final drives as well as brake bands cost me $1,175. That included sleeving a few shafts in the final drives at $50-$75 a sleeve. I think you could do the trans for under $400 if you shop around for the bearings and parts. Make sure you get PC0150 which is the parts catalog for the L. PC0151 is for the LA. There is a bearing cross reference chart around that can help you find the bearings since JD does not carry a lot of the L series bearings anymore. Most were Timken bearings that came out of my LA.