2030 in frame overhaul

[cjs]

I decided to pull apart my 2030 diesel for overhaul. I"ve got a couple questions. Do you have to pull timing cover off front to remove oil pump and idler gear to change front main, or can you wedge-or shim gears in place to do this? Can I get a JD brand kit on line at a better price than my dealer (full list)? Is there another brand kit I should consider?
 

[Cliff Nelson]

Yes, you can remove the oil pump with the timing cover on. As to OH kits I have been using Advantage engine kits available through Hy-capacity. The Platinum performance kit is a little higher compression than OEM and a little less money. I haven't had any problems with them. When pricing pay attention to what is in the kit. Deere will sometimes not include rod bolts or wrist pins and bushings where others do. The Deere kits seem comparably priced until you add what isn't included.
 

[buickanddeere]

You will be happier if you go the rest of the way when already almost there now. And pull the engine so the balancer bearings can be changed and everything is more accessible to clean and inspect.
 

[tim s]

I agree with B&D,,set it out and re-seal the crank and replace the adapter housing gasket, and deal with the complete O/H..you will be glad you did..Besides that I don"t like to lay under them and get oil in my eye...
 

[Robert Major]

Hi
As a few others have said don't mess with in frame do the lot. I've seen guys try the cheap out inframe then had to go back a month later and do rear seals or clutch, you can do seals and check clutch at the same time.
I will not do an inframe for customers when they ask. I've seen too many problems shortly after to last a life time plus working in all the oil and junk that falls on you and in the motor is nasty . I tell them take it someplace else. they can have the headache when it's wrong and you're not happy, And in reality you probably only save a day shop time if your doing it your self.
Regards Robert
 

[ben brown]

i have done a lot in frames the main thing that you want to do is look at main and rod bearing if they have a lot of wear on them then the blancer bushing could be going bad. as far as removing oil pump it can be done the shaft is a taper fit so loosen the nut on shaft then with a brass drift knock the shaft from gear. now i well get lot don't do but to get the nut to re tighten you may have to wedge a drift in between the pump gears to hold it as you re torque the nut its best to use a new nut as it is a self locking nuts also i put a drop of lock tight on it. a good in frame well last a long time and depending on number hrs that you use your tractor it may well be the best way to go.
 

[cjs]

Thanks for the replies. I was pretty set on an in frame, but after I pulled it apart (and got the oil in my face) I found a crank that had been ground before, and a rod bearing that had spun at one time, I decided you guys were right. I went ahead and did the split. Glad I did, the front and rear seals were both leaking and half the clutch facing on one side of disc was gone, not just wore. I got in a lot deeper than I wanted to, but I just bolted the 3 main sections together last night. I've got a ways to go but its been fun.
I've got a couple more questions. Is 15-40 diesel oil OK for break in, or should I use something different? This tractor is supposed to be the dark green color isn't it? Thanks a lot guys.