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'41 R2 Cat track tightness


 
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Mr. T. Minnesota
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 4:40 pm    Post subject: '41 R2 Cat track tightness Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Forum Members,
Wondering about the tightness and lubrication of the tracks on an R2 Cat. Was plowing a fair amount of snow with a pivoting blade I adapted to the R2 and noticed the right rear sprocket seemed to be slipping when in third gear. I slowed it to second gear and it was a lot better. Question is, does the snow act as a lubricant to the tracks that are not supposed to be lubed? I know the tracks may not be tightened to specs but they are close. Is the slippage in third gear with snow an indicator of any particular problems? Other wise the Cat is in very good shape. Any thoughts or comments are welcome!
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AJ.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: '41 R2 Cat track tightness Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Look at the sprocket to see if the snow has built up in between the teeth or if the teeth are worn,check the chain bushes also,certain types of snow packs in between the teeth and pushes the chain away from the sprocket,to get over the problem of the snow packing a hole is cut in the pad to allow it to escape,see picture.
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D7fever
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: '41 R2 Cat track tightness Reply to specific post Reply with quote

If you do not have "snow pads" on your dozer, and run in the snow, you will pack snow into ice between the sprocket and the pad, eventually putting so much pressure on the chain that something will break. the pic of the pad on the other post is a "snow pad" you can make your own and cut out the center of the pad so the snow won't pack in there. The offset cleats on the growzers will help also, just cut some up and weld them on, 2 on one pad, 1 on the nest and repeat.
 
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Idaho spud
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 6:36 pm    Post subject: Re: '41 R2 Cat track tightness Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Sounds like you're due for new sprocket segments if track is adjusted pretty close to specs
 
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Billy NY
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:26 am    Post subject: Re: '41 R2 Cat track tightness Reply to specific post Reply with quote

Like was mentioned below snow will build up in the root of the sprocket and increase tension on the track chain as the snow packs in and builds up on the sprocket.

I believe its possible that once the pin/bushing is up far enough out of the sprocket root, you could get slippage from it, and of course, when things get tight, you cold break something, as well as accelerate wear.

Tension on a track that has carrier rollers, for the older caterpillars, (R2 I belive does not have carrier rollers) is usually correct when you can pry up on the chain and see 1 1/2" + or - gap, not sure on those without carrier rollers, your manuals should cover that.

You should brush up on undercarriage measuring, to determine the wear on the pins/bushings and or stretch, you need to measure across the pins while they are level and taut. Doing this will help assess the wear and potentially aid in figuring out any repairs that may be feasible to perform to bring the U/C back within spec's. If worn but still a long ways from destruction, or completely worn out, limited use and hours should be ok. Sometimes you can build up the rails, (bottom side of track links, re-grouser the pads or similar) for the desired effect, say getting some tension back on the chain or better traction, it used to be common to build up rollers too, turn pins and bushings to the unused side. Worn rails are easy to spot, check to see if the bottom roller flanges are hitting the pin bosses and making a flat spot, once the rails are built up or new track chain installed, it will stop doing that, also is a bumpy ride when they hit. Some would cut off the flanges on the rollers, run to destruction before replacing the U/C. You won't know the U/C condition until you measure, very possible it could be worn with 20-30% left, a well worn U/C with a lot of part time use left or you may find that some parts are worn more than others or maybe the tractor did not get wore out, had U/C work kept up or how many other scenarios. Its good to measure, as you may determine that say building up the rails is feasible, turning pins/bushings, as well which could get hundreds if not more hours, vs leaving as is and often times when something is well worn or a condition exists with wear that can accelerate more wear, meaning the repairs will prevent that acceleration, and the U/C is back to normal wear rates. Loose tracks, too much tension, abrasive soils, and lots of other things can accelerate wear. Sometimes you can measure up and determine its feasible to run until destruction, then replace, I ran a D8K like that once, ran it on a scraper job, pushing the pans (scrapers) and when it went to the CAT U/C shop, the pieces falling off left a trail and the UAW yard man refused to unload it, being a union shop you unhook the detachable and they operate the tractor in their yard, this time I had to do it and run it right to the shop door, the trail of broken metal reminded me of an old Munsters episode where grandpas hotrod, left parts all over the street.

More than likely just the snow, but it won't hurt to measure your track components and see what you have. You would need to know what the "new" specs were for the R2, then compare measurements, do the math to figure percentage, relatively easy to do. Caterpillar used to offer track gauges, just one piece tool with cut outs to mate up to the parts, that you can easily see how much is worn, as the gauge is made with the new spec's or dimensions. Hopefully some help and not too redundant LOL !
Undercarriage Measuring

 
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