Replacing oil pan gasket only where leaking?

[JEK1]

I am working on an 8N 1952 with an unbearable leak coming from the front of the engine. I have disassembled to the status as shown in the picture. I turned out, the oil pan gasket around the front cover and governor was not installed correctly or fell out of place.
I really don’t want to remove the oil pan to replace both oil pan gaskets because it is not leaking any where else. Have never and want to avoid replacing an oil pan gasket without pulling the engine and assembling on an engine stand. Questions: Is it practical to just cut and fit a new oil pan gaskets and install the new cut gaskets only where needed? Is this a difficult maneuver installing oil pan with whole new gaskets in this position?

The tractor is in really good shape where compression on all cylinders is 90 to 100 psi, runs good except for the bad leak.

 

[HCooke]

Is it leaking from the oil pan or the front seal? It would not take too much to drain the fluids, remove the engine, put it on a stand, flip it over and replace the seals and oil pan gasket correctly.
 

[JEK1]

The front seal is not leaking. Prior to this, I cleaned the area in front of the engine and let it run for about 15 minutes. Hours later, there was about more than an ounce of oil on the floor. Tor it down and pulled the front pulley and there was no oil between the pulley and engine.

The seal looks to be in good shape and plan to replace front pulley because I bent it when removing.
 

[Bill Rowles]

I think you could move the support from the engine oil pan to the transmission housing and leave the engine bolted to the transmission, while unbolting the oil sump and lowering it with a transmission jack or a good floor jack with wheels (with a second person to stabilize it on the jack). Replace it carefully, with new gaskets glued to sump or tied in place with string, the same way. Anyone see a problem with this method to replace the gaskets?
 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Though not definitive, my experience is that a leak from the front section of the engine is from the front seal on the crank shaft. I replaced the ropes with the new neoprene seal and have never looked back. If you are certain it is not the front seal, then I would get a paper gasket, use Permatex Ultra-Black gasket maker and seal it up. I would also clean the surfaces with a wire wheel good to get the old gasket and crud out. Also, make sure you use the right bolts around the governor or you will be in big trouble.

If the bolts and nuts and washers are old, splurge and get new. No reason to mess with old bolts; grade five will work fine.

I don't know what your mechanical ability is, but be ready to time the dizzy when you re-install it.

The last thing I would tell you is to get some blocks and block under that front end. Blocks interwoven don't fall. If you don't have any, go to Lowes or HD and find the most crooked 6x6 or 4x6 you can find, throw it on your cart and get the manager to take 50% off to get rid of it. I have done it on several occasions and they are willing to discount deeply warped posts. That and fence jobs are how I got my blocks.
 

[ASEguy]

You can. I have done many timing covers and chains in automotive where we slit the oil pan gasket at the block and installed a section with black RTV. Just make sure you use enough RTV at the corners, but not too much. If you do decide to roll the engine over on a stand, remove the pan first to avoid unecessary debris from getting into the engine. Gerard
 

[russb wa]

Just don't forget to pull the drain plug before dropping the pan. ;-/