3020 pto seal replacement

[farmeroz]

On my 64 diesel there is a leak around the pto shaft, Must I drain the rearend before pulling off the cast iron cover? I have two 3020's and a 3010, each has a different style cover around the pto. I have one of those thick 3000 series tractor repair manuals but not much help for pulling the pto shaft.
 

[turklilley]

Yes, drain the fluid, then replace the seal. You may need a speedi-sleeve to repair the worn area were the seal rides the shaft.
 

[df]

I have done it before by heading the front end down a steep hill and not drained the fluid.
 

[farmeroz]

Pretty cold outside tonight and light snow. Think I will drain it in a warm shop. Thanks All
 

[farmeroz]

Trying a picture of my 3020 gas. This is my planting tractor, does 120 acres each yr. The 3020 diesel is in the shop for repairs and paint. Should look just as nice when done.

 

[Texasmark1]

I may be out of line here but I had a 4010 and 4020 and replaced the seal on both. Recalling from years ago, there was a snap ring holding the PTO shaft in place which you remove, catch about a pint of oil, reach in with a curved pick and pull out the old and replace it. I didn't have to drain the 15 gallons of trans hyd fluid.

I do remember the 20 had the dual PTO speed option. Don't think the 10 did. That may make a difference in having to drain or not. Obviously the dual PTO was designed for field speed change so they sealed the PTO from the main sump.

I don't know about the 3000 series.

However, I'd bet TX. Jim does. Give him a yell.

Mark
 

[Tx Jim]

[Tx Jim]

farmeroz
It's been many years since I looked in a 3000 service manual but I sure thought it outlined how to R&R pto seal. Drain the oil or have plenty of "kitty litter". On a 3020 the seal R&R requires removal of the snap ring, brg & quill to access the seal. Here's a list of parts required. PS the o-ring is very important.
R33340 SEAL,OIL ADD 22.99 USD
F1870R PACKING,-O-RING ADD 3.69 USD
R33337 GASKET ADD 6.57 USD
 

[Texasmark1]

Look man, I have done a lot of things over the years and didn't
ever figure I'd have to recollect in exquisite, accurate, detail the
finer elements of those things. I'm a big picture guy and not a
pick-addict.

Having had a 10 and a 20 over several years, along with at least
a dozen other tractors, and that (the JD 4000 association) having
terminated back in '07, and the fact that they look and work
pretty much (TO ME) the same, other than the 10 being a diesel,
sometimes I get confused.

Usually I put in caveats that identify the origin of my comments
and whether or not they can be taken at face value: As I
remember, I think, I was told, mine did bla bla, it seems to me,
this or that manual says, the guy at the dealer told me, this how
I attacked the problem, etc.

On the seal, I THINK the 20 is the one that had the 1000 rpm
PTO adapter stowed beside and to the left of the PTO. As I said,
I don't remember if the 10 did or not and as I said I didn't
remember if I replaced seals on both. When I said I'm probably
stepping out of bounds on this I was referring to the fact that I
never had nor worked on a 3000 series and presumed that they
may be similar to the 4000 but it was just a guess.

I DO however, remember that the one I changed was a surprise
in that I didn't have to drain the whole shebang to do it and
picking the Oring out and installing the new one was an easy
task. I DON'T remember how I found out that I didn't have to do
the drain before I made the repair.

So sir, CUT ME SOME SLACK! Everybody on here didn't spend 25
or 45 or whatever number of years as a JD dealer associate of
whatever sort you were, in a specific ag related business.

Mark
 

[tim s]

Of course there is a big difference between the 3010/4010 and the 3020/4020 PTO"s on the 10"s it requires splitting the tractor and removing the speed gears and shift pins (I just finished locking a 4010 into 540 only),,on the 20"s you can swap the stub shaft o-ring quickly with out loosing much oil, but to change the shaft seal draining the oil is a must, unless you can hang it up by the draw bar. If you wipe the seal area clean and let the PTO run a bit you will be able to see which place the oil is coming from,,My guess is the outer area, which would be the "seal" and not the stub shaft o-ring,,and yes you will probably need a "ready sleeve" to make the repair last, the seal area will be worn badly from all the dirt and grit that has been packing in there over the years.
 

[Tx Jim]

Texasmark1
In the future I will refrain from replying to your post. Sorry I got your blood pressure up.
Jim
 

[tim s]

Yes,,lets keep it clean and fun,,we already lost Frank,,Darn it...
 

[Texasmark1]

Accepted!