Think it can be Saved?

[Tom Bond]

Got the head gasket on and looks good, put in a thermostat that works now, ran it awhile with fresh anti-freeze and this is what I found after it cooled down. Think it can be saved or should I just save myself the headache and get a new one? Would like to keep this one with the original date code of 12/57 stamped on it but don't know if they can save it with what looks like an attempt to fix it by PO.
 

[RodinNS]

If you're wanting to keep it original... yeah, it can probably be saved. It looks to me like the leak is between the tank and the core and there should be a gasket in there... so a rad shop should probably be able to fix that. How ripe the core itself is... is another story. Let them have a look at it anyway.

Rod
 

[Dean]

Visually, it does not look too bad.

I expect that a good radiator shop could repair it for you.

Whether they will do so or not is an entirely different matter.

Dean
 

[Pops1532]

A good radiator shop should be able to fix that. Some can re-core it if needed.
 

[McBride]

I had one repaired that looked a lot worse than that one.
 

[Kirk-NJ]

A good shop might be able to fix it. the old radiator are better quality than the aftermarket ones.To have them record will cost you about three times as much as an aftermarket radiators. I had heard that some aftermarket ones are a less than perfect fit.

Kirk

 

[RBnSC]

I can't believe some one would do that run the overflow pipe to the axle....
Ron
 

[Robert Major]

Hi
From what I have seen on a number of rads that have had spot repairs done that are this old, it"s probably time to go for a re build on this one if the top and bottom tanks/sides and mountings are salvageable. or find a good quality new one if it exists.
I seem to remember the tubes are soldered inside the tank and it runs to the outside a bit so this is kind of a cheap fix i think by the looks of it

A guy has to remember this thing has been expanding and contracting in use for probably over 50 years.
The solder joints get weak and you will just keep chasing the leaks round the top seams and cooling tubes. Chances are Probably you will get it good and in a month it will leak 2 tubes over or split 3" up the header seam when it finds the next weak spot.
Rad repair is not cheap any more and you would be happier with the first bill and it"s right, when you count the lost time taking it off /running to town to take it and bring it back later, and the cost of antifreeze you lost on top.
This is my experience from a good few years working on old tractors in my shop for my self and customers .
You have to make the choice in the end thats right for you, it's your money, or the governments if you don't spend it first lol . I know what mine would be right now.
Good luck with it.
Regards Robert
 

[Will Gumbert]

You may have already done this, but if you get it repaired (or even if you replace the radiator) you might help things a bit by using a new 4 lb cap and only fill the coolant to just over the core. Check the overflow tube for restrictions. -Will
 

[BruceRTN]

Mine was worse than that and a local (trusted) rad shop said "buy the repop". I haven't had any probs yet (4+ years) but ya gotta keep the fluids changed. If you're using the tractor, replace the rad, flush the old one and put it in storage in case you need it in the future.