difference

[az tractor]

what is the difference between a lawn tractor and a garden tractor?

the reason I am asking is that the mfgs usually note that the lawn tractor should not be used with ground engaging implements.

Is this because of the transmission or what?

probably a no brainer for those in the know, but I don't.

I have a sears lawn tractor and an old ss16 garden tractor that may go belly up at any moment,
so would like to know if the lawn tractor could be used for dragging, grading, etc.
not over populated with money, so buying a "real"
garden tractor is not an option at this time.

thanks,
Floyd
 

[Harvey 2]

Big difference is rear wheel size, such as 12 inch or more, verses 8 or 10 inch wheels. Yes the transmission if usually heaver built, and the tractor has a higher ground clearance . I like the Sears Surburbans, and have some, if you want to get rid of it let me know.
 

[Old Roy]

Most you can do with a lawn tractor is maybe run a dethatcher , small roller,and just a bit better for plowing snow , than shoveling it .

A garden tractor can have many more uses such as plowing garden, pushing dirt , gravel,will possibly use a tiller (Depending on the gearing)So many more uses than a Lawn tractor.

The SS 16 ? you can still find many implements for. even a sickle bar mower
Heavy gearing with real bearings vs. light aluminum cases for rear end with bushing style bearings.

Don't feel you ask a dumb question. Many folks feel they have a garden tractor for sale when in fact they just have a lawn mower.
 

[MNGB]

And if your looking thinking about a hydrostatic the differences are big a lawn tractor hydro is a sealed throwaway unit the garden tractor hydro's have a spin-on filter and filler and drain plugs to change the tranny fluid and if you in AZ as you handle indicates a lawn tractor hydro in AZ heat will not last with ground engaging implements.
GB in MN
 

[dhermesc]

Without too much money you might be ahead repairing the SS16. Usually fixing something before it breaks (throws a rod) might be a lot cheaper than running it until it drops.
 

[Dave Sherburne NY]

This is a garden tractor all the rest are lawn tractors
1969 Jim Dandy

1978 Power King

 

[Harvey 2]

I have several Power-King and Jim Dandy tractors.
They are well built and can still find all the parts
I want. I have some to sell,I have some of the
plastic hooded ones as well, such as 1212;1217;1218
 

[G1355]

My favorite ones are the allis chalmers from the big ten to the 920 there all about bulletproof and they all have tons of attachments, and are very heavy. There the same as a simplicity except the 300 and 400 series. Your sears wouldn't be bad either, kinda like the looks of them
 

[ShadetreeRet]

The garden tractors are much heavier all the way around. Frame, transmission larger wheels and tires. Many lawn tractors will not accept a hitch for ground working implements. If it is the engine on your Suburban, as someone mentioned, I would try to repair it. Can't remember if it had a Briggs or Tecumseh engine on it. Those Suburbans were hard to beat!
 

[Tom Arnold]

I can certainly understand your confusion over this issue. Forty-years ago, the line between a lawn tractor and a garden tractor was much easier to see. Today, that line has been blurred by the douche-bags in the marketing segment of several companies. One of the smudges was the term "Yard Tractor" and to this day, I really have a tough time figuring out what differentiates a Yard Tractor from a Lawn Tractor.

I don't disagree with what you have been told so far is this thread. By and large, Lawn Tractors are designed and built for light duty work such as cutting manicured lawns, blowing snow, ploughing snow with a blade and pulling a cart or lawn roller. Generally speaking, most of the Lawn Tractors weigh in at 400 LBS or less. They use vertical shaft engines that employ a V-belt to send power to the trans-axle, whether that is a gear type, hydrostatic or some sort of mechanical variable speed drive.

Most often the rear wheels are 10" diameter rims or less and the front rims are 6" or less. They have some sort of "tow plate" at the rear that is simply a hole drilled in a horizontal piece of steel the sticks out from the tractor frame.

At the other end of the spectrum is the true Garden Tractor. It normally uses engines with horizontal crankshafts so that both ends of the engine can be used to provide rotating power. Everything about the garden tractor is built much heavier than the lawn tractor because it must be able to withstand the flexing that will take place when it is put to uses that would cause the frame of the lawn tractor to crack and fail.

Garden tractors offer either a sleeve hitch or a CAT 0 three-point hitch so that ground-engaging implements that are configured to either of those standards can be easily attached. These include several different types of earth turning ploughs, disc type harrows, planter/fertilizers, tool bars, adjustable spring-tooth harrows for weeding, rototillers, bush hog style mowers to cut tall field grass and so forth.

I don't know how ANY manufacturer today has the balls to call something a GARDEN TRACTOR if they do not offer a CAT 0 hitch to go with it, either as standard equipment or as an option. Just look at any tractor in the sub-CUT or CUT segment and see if any of those do not have a 3 point hitch as standard.

The glory days of the Garden Tractor are over with. There are very few true GT's on offer today, compared to 30 years ago or more. The price jump between the GT and the sub-CUT is narrow. Back in the 60's and 70's, you either went with a GT or you pretty much had to make the leap to the much larger AG tractor that was often far too large for most properties. The CUT and sub-CUT's have bridged that gap and the big advantages of having even a Limited CAT 1 hitch is very appealing to the savvy buyer.

Don't be fooled by some of the "garden tractor" claims made by certain manufacturers today. If they don't offer a three-point hitch, then they have no right to call their machine a garden tractor. It's just a glorified, over-priced lawn tractor and is usually being sold on the basis of a high HP rating. Look at the list of attachments the manufacturer offers for their tractor.

If there is no 12" single furrow turning plough in the roster, then they don't have a true garden tractor. Look at the operating weight of the tractor with absolutely no attachments on it. If it does not weigh at least 750 LBS, then it's a lightweight wannabee and not a true GT.

A garden tractor needs ground clearance and 12" back tires are the minimum size needed to traverse rough ground along with 8" fronts. AG bar tread tires can be easily found for 12" rims but finding them for smaller rims is a challenge.

Lastly, PRICE POINT is the big red flag. Entry level lawn tractors can be had for under two grand and better quality models will cost you upwards of 5 grand. But a true GT will begin at about the $8000.00 mark before you start adding options and attachments.
 

[az tractor]

thanks to all for the good info. It's really nice to have a forum like this for us uneducated types.

the ss16 is still soldiering away, but it really needs a general going over. I too lament the days when you could buy a "real" garden tractor.

I remember my dad buying and using a minnie mo walk-behind tractor on our garden plot. Never got enthused by that type of tractor, need a place to sit down HA

again thanks to all for the kind replies.

Floyd
 

[Tom Arnold]

You can still buy a "real garden tractor" if your pockets are deep enough.

The John Deere X700 Series along with the Ingersoll 4000/4200 Series both spring to mind. I'm not sure if Kubota is still making a true GT or not but that is another place to look.
 

[Hoenes]

Years ago my father in law gave me a '63 Bolens 800 Husky garden tractor. The manual lists it as a "medium" tube frame tractor. It has a 7 horse, horizontal shaft, Wisconsin motor. It also has high and low range in all gears, and a posi-trac differential control knob on the rear axle. Listed optional equipment are: 32 in. front pto drive "reel" mower, 22 in. rear tine tiller, 42 in. snow blade, 32 in snow blower," belly type" grader blade, 42 in. front pto street sweeper, 1 bottom plow, 40 in. disc, 42 in. field cultivator, front "belt drive" set-up to power (whatever), hyd.lift cyls. and pump, 48 in. hayrake, and a heat-houser for the cab. All I had was the grass mowing table, which was pto driven.