Coop E3 Clutch

[MT in Walford]

How hard is it to change a Coop E3 clutch? Do you have to split the tractor? And is it hard to change out the rear seal on the back of the engine when I do do the clutch? I am dripping a little oil at the rear of the engine. Thanks for any help you all can offer.
 

[Gambles]

Thanks to the live PTO that's hooked to the clutch, I think it's best to split the tractor. Allis-Chalmers had an updated rear engine seal for this Buda engine and I believe Phil Heisey will probably give you the best price on it. I'm pretty sure that original rear main seal that tends to leak is pretty hard to find and the updated version is better anyway.
 

[greygoat]

If there's a groove worn on the part of the
shaft, where the seal wears, consider a "Speedi Sleeve", also.
 

[GNR]

The new and improved rear seal is a 3 piece seal. Includes the sleeve you drive on shaft. Excellent seal! I put one on my worn out 40 and it doesn't leak.
 

[Irv B]

Pull the sheet metal, pull the radiator, and pull the motor if you want to do this right. To change the seal you will have to pull clutch and pressure plate, fly wheel and the rear engine plate. The 30 uses a bolt on carrier for the rear main seal. as suggested all ready you may need a speed sleeve, and you may also need the thick rubber seal for carrier. If you dont want to do it again do it all right the first time. Phil Heisey or I both have these clutches relined or I have linning kits. I also have refurbished pressure plates as well as brake linings. I would also suggest you spend the money for a new clutch release bearing. Quiestions? Have fun! Irv