3 cylinder displacement?

[pomester]

I am looking at a professionally rebuilt 3 cylinder gas engine. It is purported to be 201ci displacement. Is there an external way to confirm that. I'm not very familiar with the 3 cylinders, but I think there's some numbers stamped on the side just above the oil pan?

Thanks
David

 

[Texasmark]

That's probably the part number of the engine block. You might be able to research that and get your answer. WAG: The 201 would be in the 40 hp class whereas the 172 area would be the 30 hp class....give or take as I don't have any printed data handy to substantiate my SWAG...S is for scientific....grin.

 

[a49deere]

That's probably the part number of the engine block. You might be able to research that and get your answer. WAG: The 201 would be in the 40 hp class whereas the 172 area would be the 30 hp class....give or take as I don't have any printed data handy to substantiate my SWAG...S is for scientific....grin.

I may be wrong, And I often am, but wasn't the 172 a 4-cylinder engine and the 192 a 3- cylinder?

 

[a49deere]

I am looking at a professionally rebuilt 3 cylinder gas engine. It is purported to be 201ci displacement. Is there an external way to confirm that. I'm not very familiar with the 3 cylinders, but I think there's some numbers stamped on the side just above the oil pan?

Thanks
David

Is there anything stamped BSD332=192, BSD333=201?

 

[Andy Wickiser]

I am looking at a professionally rebuilt 3 cylinder gas engine. It is purported to be 201ci displacement. Is there an external way to confirm that. I'm not very familiar with the 3 cylinders, but I think there's some numbers stamped on the side just above the oil pan?

Thanks
David

Check for engine serial number as shown below. I think that's the location you are referring to. If the engine serial number starts with a P that would be from a 4000-series and a 201. Otherwise maybe post the serial number to the Ford forum and see if you get a response.

 

[Destroked 450]

You can get close by checking the engines serial number on the right side oil pan rail. The first letter in the serial number indicates what model tractor the engine was originally designated to go on
Early 65/mid 68 engines had different letters from mid 68/later engines
65/mid 68
L - 2000 158 ci gas or diesel 4.2 bore x 3.8 stroke
N - 3000 158 ci gas 4.2 bore x 3.8 stroke
N - 3000 175 ci diesel 4.2 bore x 4.2 stroke
P - 4000 192 ci gas 4.4 bore x 4.2 stroke
P - 4000 201 diesel 4.4 bore x 4.4 stroke

Mid 68/later
B - 2000. 158 gas or diesel. 4.2 x 3.8
C - 3000 158 gas 4.2 x 3.8
C - 3000 175 diesel. 4.2 x 4.2
D - 4000 gas or diesel 4.4 x 4.4
Model change was April 1 68 but I had a July built 4000 that still used the 192 gas engine

All 2000/3000 blockes were 4.2 bore
All 4000 blocks were 4.4 bore except the one oddball 183 ci industrial diesel engine

Since parts can be mixed and matched, block number will give a idea of the bore and on a gas engine I’d pull a spark plug and measure the stroke

 

[Bob NY]

I may be wrong, And I often am, but wasn't the 172 a 4-cylinder engine and the 192 a 3- cylinder?

There was a 192 4 cylinder industrial engine (bored out 172) and later a 192 3 cylinder used in ag tractors.

 

[Fordfarmer]

You can get close by checking the engines serial number on the right side oil pan rail. The first letter in the serial number indicates what model tractor the engine was originally designated to go on
Early 65/mid 68 engines had different letters from mid 68/later engines
65/mid 68
L - 2000 158 ci gas or diesel 4.2 bore x 3.8 stroke
N - 3000 158 ci gas 4.2 bore x 3.8 stroke
N - 3000 175 ci diesel 4.2 bore x 4.2 stroke
P - 4000 192 ci gas 4.4 bore x 4.2 stroke
P - 4000 201 diesel 4.4 bore x 4.4 stroke

Mid 68/later
B - 2000. 158 gas or diesel. 4.2 x 3.8
C - 3000 158 gas 4.2 x 3.8
C - 3000 175 diesel. 4.2 x 4.2
D - 4000 gas or diesel 4.4 x 4.4
Model change was April 1 68 but I had a July built 4000 that still used the 192 gas engine

All 2000/3000 blockes were 4.2 bore
All 4000 blocks were 4.4 bore except the one oddball 183 ci industrial diesel engine

Since parts can be mixed and matched, block number will give a idea of the bore and on a gas engine I’d pull a spark plug and measure the stroke

Just going from memory, haven't looked it up, but I think the 4100 and 4110 (45 h.p. versions of the 4600SU and 4610SU) also used the 183 c.i.
Neither of those were common in my area.

 

[Sean in PA]

Just going from memory, haven't looked it up, but I think the 4100 and 4110 (45 h.p. versions of the 4600SU and 4610SU) also used the 183 c.i.
Neither of those were common in my area.

Yes, but the engine serial number for those start with a K, because their model numbers started with KA. The 4100 was KA1 and KA2 depending on when they were made, and the 4110 was KA3. Actually, the diesel K series engines had a 183 ci displacement, but the gas models used a 175 ci displacement.

 

[pomester]

Thanks all. I don't have direct access to the rebuilt motor but will ask the shop for the letters/numbers stamped on the block. It's a conundrum. I have a decrepit 1965 4500 that does what I need. It has issues tho. The power takeoff shaft from the front pulley to the hydraulic pump has a bad universal joint. To replace that it appears that the front end needs to be removed. The engine rattles and has terrible blow-by to the extent I've run a hose to vent it behind the machine. Removing the loader and getting that heavy front end off would seem the opportune time to replace the worn out engine.

The conundrum is that I will be spending $5K plus labor on a tractor that will be worth $2500 maybe.

Dunno -

To get a modern machine to do what I want which is not a project would likely be $30K+. I've got $5k, I don't have $30K to spend.

P

Thread 'It's beautiful....'

Feb 4, 2017

and runs as good as it looks!

original(?) Holley carb running at the tested half-choke configuration -

apparently original generator and canister oil filter -

I did not find as many numbers as I expected, nor are they the ones I anticipated - would someone decipher them for me?

broken exhaust...

• pomester
• Replies: 16
• Forum: Ford

 

[Destroked 450]

That’s the transmission code
You need to be looking in the same area on the other side
65 model will have the 192 gas engine, if you do get a 201 you’ll need the 201’s front crank pulley as they are different front the 192 pulley

 

[pomester]

That’s the transmission code
You need to be looking in the same area on the other side
65 model will have the 192 gas engine, if you do get a 201 you’ll need the 201’s front crank pulley as they are different front the 192 pulley

Ya, got the model/numbers/and such figured out fairly quickly. Hard to believe it was 8 years ago...

"if you do get a 201 you’ll need the 201’s front crank pulley as they are different front the 192 pulley"

Thanks for that. You think the driveshaft for the hydraulic pump will bolt up to the 201's pulley without having to make modifications?

 

[Destroked 450]

Yes the drive adapter will bolt to either pulley

 

[Check Break]

I have a decrepit 1965 4500 that does what I need. It has issues tho. The power takeoff shaft from the front pulley to the hydraulic pump has a bad universal joint. To replace that it appears that the front end needs to be removed.

You don't have to remove the front bolster to change the pump drive. When you get all the oil and dirt cleaned out of the bolster and get the pump exposed, you will see that you can unbolt the pump and move it forward to gain the distance you need to remove the pump drive. The bigger problem will be the pump input shaft. Hopefully all the rattling from the pump drive didn't eat up the pump input shaft splines. If they are worn, the trick is to shim the pump drive away from the crank with washers behind the drive flange. The new drive will seat deeper onto the pump input shaft and you'll be good for another millennium if you keep her greased.

 

[pomester]

You don't have to remove the front bolster to change the pump drive. When you get all the oil and dirt cleaned out of the bolster and get the pump exposed, you will see that you can unbolt the pump and move it forward to gain the distance you need to remove the pump drive. The bigger problem will be the pump input shaft. Hopefully all the rattling from the pump drive didn't eat up the pump input shaft splines. If they are worn, the trick is to shim the pump drive away from the crank with washers behind the drive flange. The new drive will seat deeper onto the pump input shaft and you'll be good for another millennium if you keep her greased.

Ya - I found a you-tube from a fellow disassembling one (not a very good video, but helpful) and it looks like removing the radiator exposes the entire assembly. This early model has a pump that is tight against the front of the bolster, no space to move it forward. I got into that situation trying to change the fan/generator belt - ended up using a link-belt. I could not get the universal joint on the pump splines to move. I didn't try real hard, access is limited and I didn't want to damage the pump. I will likely have to lift the shaft and pump assembly out as a unit and get it on a bench to work on. The bad universal joint is not noticeably hammering at this point, but will not take grease. The yokes are visually not evenly spaced. It might last as long as I need it, no more than I use it, but more likely will leave me stranded when I am in dire need one of these springs.

Dunno - watching that you-tube is intimidating. Heavy stuff that's been stuck together for 60 years. The power steering cylinder is the biggest hydraulic leak I have left. The fellow struggled with that and left it buggered, although he's not much of a mechanic (I say in all humility).

I don't really want to tear this thing apart. Looks like a tough job. And time consuming. I hate time-bombs tho.

you-tube - there's like 6 episodes. Not sure exactly what he's trying to do.

You-tube

 

[Sean in PA]

This early model has a pump that is tight against the front of the bolster, no space to move it forward.

Can you post a picture? The pump should be in front of the bolster from my memory, but it's been a while.

 

[pomester]

Can you post a picture? The pump should be in front of the bolster from my memory, but it's been a while.

 

[Sean in PA]

I guess my memory is failing me. I must have been thinking of another model.

 

[pomester]

I guess my memory is failing me. I must have been thinking of another model.

At some point the pump changed. Click that you-tube link above and you'll see a different pump. I have a CD of the parts manual, but it has all the 3 cylinder models and finding specific items is a real search problem. I was going thru it tonight and printing off various sections which pertain to the 4500, then walked over to the printer and found it had run out of ink about half way through. I gave it up for the evening. There's nearly 900 pages of which maybe 60-70 pertain to the model I'm in which I'm interested.

I will say that this pumps performance is quite impressive. That loader moves quickly.

 

[Sean in PA]

After looking at those pictures I do remember the 4500 pump being in there because the reservoir is up above it. I think I was remembering the pump from a 4400.