SAFEST and best way to use my Case 411 with 3 point to move trailers that require a ball connection

[JoeyPorkChops]

Hello all,

Man-oh-man has it been a long time since I have been in/on the forum.

My question is this
What is the SAFEST (most importantly) and best way to use my Case 411 with 3 point to move trailers that require a ball hitch connection.

Things like my camper, car trailer, etc

Look forward to hearing from all of you out there

Also, I forgot to ask
1) What is the proper name for this style of hitch? (I have just been calling them 3 point tractor receiver hitches)
2) What do I ABSOLUTELY NOT WANT TO BUY


JoeyPorkChops

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello all,

Man-oh-man has it been a long time since I have been in/on the forum.

My question is this
What is the SAFEST (most importantly) and best way to use my Case 411 with 3 point to move trailers that require a ball hitch connection.

Things like my camper, car trailer, etc

Look forward to hearing from all of you out there

JoeyPorkChops

Many of these on the market. The 2" receiver lets you use different common hitches. Some have provisions for a bales spear as well if you need to move round bales.

Some three point pallet fork carriers can be found with receiver hitches built in them as well.

 

[JoeyPorkChops]

Many of these on the market. The 2" receiver lets you use different common hitches. Some have provisions for a bales spear as well if you need to move round bales.

Some three point pallet fork carriers can be found with receiver hitches built in them as well.

View attachment 148920

Thanks for the reply,


Yes, that thing, in the picture, is the exact thing I am looking for. I am very new to tractors and tractor stuff. So, I have a lot of questions.

I am sorry this will be as long as it is but I need the help.
So here goes……

I purchased my first (and only) tractor about 3 years ago, the aforementioned Case 411.
I know ALMOST nothing about tractors, but I am learning, and eager to learn more and more.

All that being said, please tell me everything you can think of about these 3-point hitches.
Do not worry about insulting my intelligence (there is no way you can)

Please talk (OK write) to me in the same way you would to a child in kindergarten.

Regarding the 3-point hitch receiver.
Will you please answer the questions below if you have the time?

Do the 3-point receiver hitches have…..

1. A tractor horse power rating that must be followed?
2. A Category they fall into (Category 1, 2, 3 etc.)?
3. The ability to attach to the Eagle Hitch on my 411?
4. A tractor specific requirement, (e.g. Will the same 3-point hitch that fits on a Case tractor, also fit on other tractors) as long as the tractors are same basic size, horse power, and designed to do the same type of work?

Thank you very much for the information you have already provided and THANKS in advance for any help you are willing to pass along.

JoeyPorkChops

 

[Jim.ME]

Most are for industry standard category 1 hitches currently used by most all manufacturers on their tractors. I have several both purchased and homemade. we move ball hitch trailers, pintle hitch trailers goose neck trailers and pin hitch pull type equipment with them. Seldom crank a jack when moving things around in the yard any more.

I will admit to not being familiar with the Case eagle hitch. If you can hook to common category 1 or 2 implements there should be no issue using one. I don't see horsepower being an issue with these. It is more how well your tractor can handle the tongue weight and move/stop the trailer. You can use a Cat 1 hitch on a cat 3 tractor if you want and it hooks up. You just have to be sharp enough not to over load the hitch pins, which i don't see that should be a problem moving trailers.

 

[jon f mn]

The proper name is Eagle Hitch. It is either cat 1 or cat2, the main difference is pin size. The new replacement claws can be bought for cat 1 or cat 2 size pins. The arms and the third link will work with cat1 and 2 implements. The eagle hitch is actually safer for moving trailers because it wont float up. Standard 3pt wont hold down so if going down hill the trailer can push the hitch up.

 

[Ray,IN]

for using the 3-pt hitch arrangement this how it's done; keep in mind this is an old H.Ferguson 30 tractor.
This hook-up stabilizes the hitch and prevent it from moving up or down.
.

There is now a new style drawbar bracket that prevents it from rotating. The one in that Ferguson picture is home-made.

 

[Tgrasher]

If your of a mind to, one can make one, much cheaper. Thought I'd pick one up at an auction, guys are willing to pay over a hundred dollars for one.

 

[JoeyPorkChops]

If your of a mind to, one can make one, much cheaper. Thought I'd pick one up at an auction, guys are willing to pay over a hundred dollars for one.View attachment 148965

Thanks for the picture!!!! YES, I think I can make something like that. At least I think it looks like something I can handle. I have almost everything I need laying around (Famous Last Words -- LOL) Thanks again for the picture it really helps!! What are you using for the bottom that goes into the bottom of the 3-point?

JoeyPorkChops

 

[JoeyPorkChops]

The proper name is Eagle Hitch. It is either cat 1 or cat2, the main difference is pin size. The new replacement claws can be bought for cat 1 or cat 2 size pins. The arms and the third link will work with cat1 and 2 implements. The eagle hitch is actually safer for moving trailers because it wont float up. Standard 3pt wont hold down so if going down hill the trailer can push the hitch up.

Thanks for that information. I did NOT know about the floating up when going down hill.

JoeyPorkChops

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for the picture!!!! YES, I think I can make something like that. At least I think it looks like something I can handle. I have almost everything I need laying around (Famous Last Words -- LOL) Thanks again for the picture it really helps!! What are you using for the bottom that goes into the bottom of the 3-point?

JoeyPorkChops

That appears to be a standard three-point hitch drawbar he bolted his hitch to. I have made a couple doing them that way.

 

[Tgrasher]

Yes a three point draw bar with my gob welded creation bolted to it. I tried using a draw bar with a chain/lever hooked to the lift arm but I was never happy with it. This reminds me, I loaned it to a guy a few months back, better se what happened to it.

 

[CaseDC3]

Hello all,

Man-oh-man has it been a long time since I have been in/on the forum.

My question is this
What is the SAFEST (most importantly) and best way to use my Case 411 with 3 point to move trailers that require a ball hitch connection.

Things like my camper, car trailer, etc

Look forward to hearing from all of you out there

Also, I forgot to ask
1) What is the proper name for this style of hitch? (I have just been calling them 3 point tractor receiver hitches)
2) What do I ABSOLUTELY NOT WANT TO BUY


JoeyPorkChops

I think I remember Saeli had these made or sold them... But, as my wife always reminds me, "Why are you always wrong?"

 

[kw135]

Personally I would never hook a trailer up to anything on the 3 pt. There should be a proper hitch that slides in underneath for towing trailers. Seen trailers that were either balanced or tongue light, causing them to rise up and then the back end of the trailer digs into the ground. Also, I know of a couple of times that folks did this and travelling over rough ground with the hammering downwards on the 3 pt caused issues internally and an inoperable 3 pt hitch. One other thing about using the 3 pt for towing a trailer...if the trailer has sufficient weight and you go down a hill, the trailer will want to push on the tractor, resulting in the hitch rising and a potential disaster. Ray,IN posted a pic of the proper way to use a 3 pt with a ball hitch

 

[Jim.ME]

Personally I would never hook a trailer up to anything on the 3 pt. There should be a proper hitch that slides in underneath for towing trailers. Seen trailers that were either balanced or tongue light, causing them to rise up and then the back end of the trailer digs into the ground. Also, I know of a couple of times that folks did this and travelling over rough ground with the hammering downwards on the 3 pt caused issues internally and an inoperable 3 pt hitch. Ray,IN posted a pic of the proper way to use a 3 pt with a ball hitch

Some thoughts.

Three-point hitch implements will hammer a three-point harder than a trailer on a ball hitch is going to, especially when those implements are carried on rough ground.

If the trailer is heavy behind the axle of course the tongue can rise up and the rear dig in. That same condition will cause issues towing such a trailer on the highway with a vehicle. Proper loading puts a slightly higher percentage of the weight on the tongue, instead of behind the axle. Using the three-point is not the cause of improper trailer loading, however improper loading will affect the hitch performance, And I would agree if you want to put all the weight behind the axle of a trailer, use the drawbar. I have known of tractors upset when such a condition took the braking ability of the rear tires away because the trailer tongue was lifting the rear of the tractor.

I move wagons, trailers, and pull type implements (which are basically trailers) on a three-point receiver hitch regularly around the yards. Yes, there are somethings and places it is not right the right tool and hooking to the drawbar is needed, but that is something for the operator to determine in each case, like many things encountered when operating a tractor or equipment. One basic rule is if you are not comfortable doing, or pulling something, you shouldn't do it. I am not saying your view is wrong for you. It is that everyone is free to see this differently, as the responses here are showing. Another example of an operator decision is I operate my tractors and equipment on hills; you would not feel safe operating on. Neither is completely right or wrong and can be applied universally. Experience and the equipment being used are big factors in such individual decisions.

 

[John Saeli]

I think I remember Saeli had these made or sold them... But, as my wife always reminds me, "Why are you always wrong?"

You are right!! We did have some made, patterned after the originals. They were a great Eagle Hitch accessory.

 

[Tgrasher]

Here's the parts book original.

 

[JoeyPorkChops]

Some thoughts.

Three-point hitch implements will hammer a three-point harder than a trailer on a ball hitch is going to, especially when those implements are carried on rough ground.

If the trailer is heavy behind the axle of course the tongue can rise up and the rear dig in. That same condition will cause issues towing such a trailer on the highway with a vehicle. Proper loading puts a slightly higher percentage of the weight on the tongue, instead of behind the axle. Using the three-point is not the cause of improper trailer loading, however improper loading will affect the hitch performance, And I would agree if you want to put all the weight behind the axle of a trailer, use the drawbar. I have known of tractors upset when such a condition took the braking ability of the rear tires away because the trailer tongue was lifting the rear of the tractor.

I move wagons, trailers, and pull type implements (which are basically trailers) on a three-point receiver hitch regularly around the yards. Yes, there are somethings and places it is not right the right tool and hooking to the drawbar is needed, but that is something for the operator to determine in each case, like many things encountered when operating a tractor or equipment. One basic rule is if you are not comfortable doing, or pulling something, you shouldn't do it. I am not saying your view is wrong for you. It is that everyone is free to see this differently, as the responses here are showing. Another example of an operator decision is I operate my tractors and equipment on hills; you would not feel safe operating on. Neither is completely right or wrong and can be applied universally. Experience and the equipment being used are big factors in such individual decisions.

Personally I would never hook a trailer up to anything on the 3 pt. There should be a proper hitch that slides in underneath for towing trailers. Seen trailers that were either balanced or tongue light, causing them to rise up and then the back end of the trailer digs into the ground. Also, I know of a couple of times that folks did this and travelling over rough ground with the hammering downwards on the 3 pt caused issues internally and an inoperable 3 pt hitch. One other thing about using the 3 pt for towing a trailer...if the trailer has sufficient weight and you go down a hill, the trailer will want to push on the tractor, resulting in the hitch rising and a potential disaster. Ray,IN posted a pic of the proper way to use a 3 pt with a ball hitch

Personally I would never hook a trailer up to anything on the 3 pt. There should be a proper hitch that slides in underneath for towing trailers. Seen trailers that were either balanced or tongue light, causing them to rise up and then the back end of the trailer digs into the ground. Also, I know of a couple of times that folks did this and travelling over rough ground with the hammering downwards on the 3 pt caused issues internally and an inoperable 3 pt hitch. One other thing about using the 3 pt for towing a trailer...if the trailer has sufficient weight and you go down a hill, the trailer will want to push on the tractor, resulting in the hitch rising and a potential disaster. Ray,IN posted a pic of the proper way to use a 3 pt with a ball hitch

Thank you for the safety alert. I WILL NEVER EVER turn my back on safety advise and information.

 

[JoeyPorkChops]

The next question I have is this, (it is OK to laugh.... I know nothing)

Because the lower arms do not move from right to left, I don't want to buy something that won’t work for whatever reason.
So, my question is this ... How wide of an implement can I connect to my Eagle Hitch.
The measurement I get on the INSIDE (or between) the lower arms is 28".

I know what ever I buy needs to be more than 28", how much?

More specific questions I have
1) Can things get bound up between the lower arms if it is too wide?
2) Do things need to be able to have some (as my father would say God rest his soul) wiggle room between the arms?
3) What do I need to watch out for to avoid damaging my Eagle Hitch.

Please feel free to provide me with more things that I don't know, I don’t know.

----- The following is only meant to be funny NOT political in anyway. ------
But I feel like Donald Rumsfeld said it best