1100 diesel wont start but runs fine

[techdif]

I'm not sure of the model year but my dad thinks mid 70s. We have two problems. First the tractor will run fine if we roll it off or give it a squirt of ether. Under no circumstances can I get it to fire off with just the starter, so here is a run down. The lift pump is less than a year old. If sediment bowl is drained it pumps up fine. Any point through the fuel system you can open, then hit pump a lick or two and fuel will squirt out including both bleeders on injector pump. So far flushed tanks, fresh diesel, sea foam,new filters, several bleeds with engine running and starter just came back from shop with new bendix and clean bill of health. Seems to spin free as ever. This problem started all at once. It cranked fine dad used for a couple hours shut it down for lunch and it has not fired on its own since. This is my pressing issue with it at the moment. The other problem is three point worked fine, was used very little, then one day it just quit arms been dragging a while now. Funny thing is aux hydraulics still work great. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Forgive my manners. My name is Ryan this is my dads toy on the farm. The farm is rented out for row cropping. We use the tractor for everything but a tractor lol.

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[Jeff Z.]

I would have a compression check done on the engine.

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hi,
It would be too easy to blame it on the main fuel pump at this stage. There are a few other things to be checked first. Have you checked all of the battery connections particularly the earth ones? Is your battery putting out full power. Is the starter turning at its correct speed? If all of the electrical side is ok then your problem could be related to a partial loss of compression through normal wear and tear. It is not uncommon to be able to start some tractors with a quick tow as this produces a quicker cranking speed than the starter will. A more rapid compression of air/fuel mixture will produce greater heat and then ignition. When the tractor is running slacken each injector individually and listen for the engine changes. All should be equal. Check also that the 'STOP' control is working correctly. When trying to start on the starter are you getting smoke from the exhaust? If the electrical, compression and fuel supply are good then injectors may be at fault. What hours has the tractor done? Have they been serviced. Unfortunately last and most expensive may be the fuel pump.
DavidP, South Wales

 

[Tramway Guy]

If there is no smoke when cranking, then you are not getting fuel to the injection nozzles.
If turning it faster (by pulling or using ether results in smoke and eventual running, that points to the injection pump head being worn.
If you do get copious amounts of smoke when cranking, then you probably have compression problems, which points to a tired engine.

 

[techdif]

(quoted from post at 12:23:39 10/21/10) If there is no smoke when cranking, then you are not getting fuel to the injection nozzles.
If turning it faster (by pulling or using ether results in smoke and eventual running, that points to the injection pump head being worn.
If you do get copious amounts of smoke when cranking, then you probably have compression problems, which points to a tired engine.

Zero smoke on starter cranking electric connections have been cleaned two optima AGM batteries I'll have to check CCA. What is the proper RPM for the starter, how is the best way to verify? Also I'll have to check the hours and report back on that. No PM other than oil changes that I know of. Engine smokes a little when it does fire but smokes very little while running until governor kicks out under load then nothing I would call excessive smoke. While running cracking injectors result in an even misfire on each cylinder that clears immediately when line is closed. I would lean more to compression issues if it took a lot of rolling to get it to fire but it seems to fire a split second after clutch engages. It doesn't have to wind up or turn over a lot like its building compression. The stop control appears to work freely with out any obvious slippage.

Thanks for the replies

 

[techdif]

The hour meter is showing 5856 and tach is working so i hope this correct. Batteries are blems with no CCA on label. Have also added a 200 amp boost charger on a couple of occasions with no luck.

 

[Jim k]

I once worked on a tractor that wouldn't start.
The owner told me "I just had the starter rebuilt and now it won't start". So I started checking things out and lo and behold the company that rebuilt the starter wired it to run the wrong direction even had a wrong direction bendix on it. You could crank it all day but it just won't run in the wrong direction.
This was on a "49" International 350 industrial TLB.

 

[techdif]

I will look into that.

 

[Danperkins]

I don't know if this will make a difference but you are supposed to pull up on the hydraulic unloader before you attempt to start the tractor. This allows the engine to spin without trying to charge up hydraulic pressure. Will the tractor start with the starter after its warmed up? If not, I wouldn't think the engine is worn out. Even a worn out engine will start on the starter once its hot. Make sure the quadrant lever for the 3 point is in the position control position. If it still doesn't lift, the spool in the control valve could be stuck. There is a spool oscillator arm that is visible from the inspection cover on the trans. Sometimes that gets out of adjustment and doesn't oscillate the spool, causing it to hang up eventually.

 

[techdif]

(quoted from post at 02:23:35 10/22/10) I don't know if this will make a difference but you are supposed to pull up on the hydraulic unloader before you attempt to start the tractor. This allows the engine to spin without trying to charge up hydraulic pressure. Will the tractor start with the starter after its warmed up? If not, I wouldn't think the engine is worn out. Even a worn out engine will start on the starter once its hot. Make sure the quadrant lever for the 3 point is in the position control position. If it still doesn't lift, the spool in the control valve could be stuck. There is a spool oscillator arm that is visible from the inspection cover on the trans. Sometimes that gets out of adjustment and doesn't oscillate the spool, causing it to hang up eventually.

Ah a clue into the lift! It just so happens there is an ugly leak in the area you mention and the leak has been there prior to 3 point quiting. Soon the ROPS is coming off to investigate leak and I will be sure to investigate all moving parts under there. Alas the engine will not fire on the starter cold, warm, or hot with out ether The aux hyd control is in the neutral (center) position as well as trans being in neutral also to allow maximum freedom for spinning the engine.

 

[KYfarm]

TramwayGuy is pointing you in the right direction.

You have been checking the diesel delivery system while the engine
is running but the real check is to check it while trying to start it.
As TramGuy says, if there is bunches of smoke out of the stack
while cranking then you do have fuel but no compression. If no
smoke at all while cranking and cranking then no fuel being
delivered and bad injection pump.