135 Clutch parts

[jtxn]

I just split my tractor today. A few years ago, I did the pan gasket. It's had a slow drip from the transmission since I got it, but I noticed recently a pretty steady drip of what looked like engine oil. So either the rear main, or the pain gasket has failed again.
Overall the split went pretty good without any help, aside from a broken fuel line.

I have questions about parts needed. I noticed several different clutch kits on this site. I counted 10 splines on both shafts coming out of the gearbox. The clutch looks like this one:

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Massey-Ferguson-135_Clutch-Kit-Dual-Coarse-Spline_12121400.html

However it says not for Deluxe models, and I think mine is Deluxe. It has 1964 stamped on the oil pan and the serial number is behind the air cleaner, so I think it's a first year US 135.

Is there something I can measure to make sure I order the right kit?

Parts I know I need so far:

new clutch kit
oem rear main rope seal
(2) seals for trans input shaft
paper gasket for trans input shaft
gasket between gearbox and rearend
gasket for break pedal mounts? 3 gaskets came out, not sure if these are required or not.

This post was edited by jtxn on 10/26/2023 at 01:54 pm.

 

[hymie2lt]

Do you happen to have the serial number of your tractor? Wayne

 

[John Deere D]

My I ask,have you ever dismantled a MF Transmission as per the one you have posted?

I'm very fortunate to have purchased this Service Manual before I ever started to dismantle a MF 6 speed with no Multi power.

$$$$$$s well invested...

Bob...

 

[jtxn]

(quoted from post at 20:32:32 10/26/23) My I ask,have you ever dismantled a MF Transmission as per the one you have posted?

No I have not. I do have a service manual. I'm not dismantling the transmission, I'm removing the input shaft to replace the seals.

Serial # SDM 641005284

 

[hymie2lt]

Do you have the six, eight speed or multi-power transmission?

 

[Bob N.Y.]

I replaced the transmission input shaft seals in a Massey 35 Deluxe a few months ago. The lower shaft has to be removed to allow the pto drive gear to drop down before the upper shaft can be pulled out the front. After you remove the cover and bearing on the lower shaft, you should find a thrust washer and a snap ring. That snap ring gave me a lot of grief! You will need some heavy duty snap ring pliers to remove it. The light duty type won't do it. Once that snap ring was out of the way, the lower shaft slid out the front with ease letting the pto drive gear drop down and then the upper shaft came out. There is no need to split the tractor behind the transmission or to remove the steering box for this repair.

 

[jtxn]

It's a six speed dual clutch. 10 spline, not sure what kit to order.


I've read many threads on this issue and watched the bundy bears shed series on youtube. It seems there is conflicting information on whether the shaft will pull forward or not. Either way I already removed the transmission from the rear end, at least I can change the hydraulic filter while it's open.

I'm trying to find one of those rope to lip seal replacement kits out from quality tractor parts out of Ireland, but haven't found a US source yet.

Another question - any tips on making a new fuel line from lift pump to the first filter? Can I reuse the ends? The line twisted and broke when I removed it for splitting.

This post was edited by jtxn on 10/27/2023 at 08:58 am.

 

[hymie2lt]

Can I get you to reply to my E-mail, at the bottom right of this post where it says send E-mail. I need some more info from you. I think I may have or can get the parts
you need. But there are so many variants of the Massey 135, we need to know exactly which one you have.
Wayne

 

[jtxn]

(quoted from post at 10:37:46 10/27/23) Can I get you to reply to my E-mail, at the bottom right of this post where it says send E-mail. I need some more info from you. I think I may have or can get the parts
you need. But there are so many variants of the Massey 135, we need to know exactly which one you have.
Wayne

I don't see an email button for you, but I do for Bob. I tried to PM you but that didn't work either.

 

[hymie2lt]

Are you on modern view. E-mail only shows on Classic view. Wayne

 

[jtxn]

I removed the input shaft tonight. One snap ring did go flying across my shop but other than that it was pretty easy. The shaft did have to slide back a good amount, however I did notice it was threaded in the middle of the shaft, probably for an old MF tool that no longer exists.

A couple of the housing bolts were not even hand tight, and the seals are cracked. I think this is the source of at least one of my leaks, the other being the rear main, still looking for that lip seal conversion kit in the US.

This post was edited by jtxn on 10/28/2023 at 07:41 pm.

 

[jtxn]

This post was edited by jtxn on 10/28/2023 at 07:42 pm.

 

[ASEguy]

When I looked up parts for mine, I made mistakes. I ordered the service manual and the parts manual. I stuck to the part numbers when I looked up parts and verified measurements with mine (diameters and number of teeth). I did mine first thing in the morning with no one up and a fresh pot of coffee.

 

[John Deere D]

With the exchange rate on the Canada /USA dollar.....

The cost to you shall be very reasonable.

The seal is available through a wholesaler in Ontario. KH Supply carry's the brand Quality Tractor Parts from Ireland. They supply several retailers in Canada.

https://www.easytractorparts.com

The part number for the modified lip seal is 64965

 

[John Deere D]

I sent you the name of the company that carries the seal,HOWEVER,YT Tractors will not allow the suppliers website address to be posted..??

The seal is available through a wholesaler in Ontario. KH Supply carry's the brand Quality Tractor Parts from Ireland. They supply several retailers in Canada.

https://www.easytractorparts.com

The part number for the modified lip seal is 64965

 

[John Deere D]

When I replaced the input shaft OIL SEALS...I checked the planetary THRUST washers. They were bad!
Bob..

 

[jtxn]

I got the new seals and gaskets in. I'm having a heck of a time getting both shafts lined up from the gearbox into the rear end. Any tips, other than the obvious of making sure it's square?

I don't have a splitting stand or a chain hoist, so I've been using jacks, or the forks on my other tractor. The issue is the dip in the housing, I can't get the lower parts of the two halves flush at the same time as the top. We even got a few bolts in, but then both shafts were bound up.

 

[John Deere D]

When I split my MF to do the Transs input seals,I attached as per pictures.

As the two halves approached each other I had a helper turn the PTO out put shaft .

Also had the stater removed,and with a pry bar turned the engine over with the Transmission in gear..

.

 

[jtxn]

I used an engine balancer off Amazon and my other tractor and was able to get it out together. I think the key here is putting the planetary extension shaft that goes towards the rear axle in the real axle housing before putting back together. I was trying to line both shafts up at the same time and it wouldn't work.

This post was edited by jtxn on 11/10/2023 at 07:30 am.

 

[jtxn]

Ok so I'm getting into the clutch. It is 10 spline. It has 12 yellow springs, perhaps original. The clutch disc and flywheel look good, maybe it was rebuilt sometime between now and 1964.

I'm looking at this complete kit from this site, but it has 12 red springs. It says it's for a 135, 150, or T035. Am I going to regret having 12 red springs coming from 12 yellow? Everything I've read said a 135 should have 6 red springs, not 12. Help.