1953 ford jubilee 3 point hitch not working

Alright I’m going to remove top lid so you want me to remove the ball from relief valve and reinstall without it correct?
What will this tell me?
 
Alright I’m going to remove top lid so you want me to remove the ball from relief valve and reinstall without it correct?
What will this tell me?
Should remove the possibility of check valve blocking path to lift cylinder, if it is now blocking it. Just use the old valve assy instead of new & photo old and new side by side. No ball.
I am going to mark up flow path during lift and send.
 
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I reinstalled relief valve installed top lid started tractor and nothing changed hydraulic fluid is still spewing at the relief valve inside of housing?
 
I reinstalled relief valve installed top lid started tractor and nothing changed hydraulic fluid is still spewing at the relief valve inside of housing?
Have you removed the home made block off plate and re installed the accessory/cover plate with test port?
 
Okay I replaced the cover plate and now the arms came up instantly took me by surprise, they don’t seem to go all the way down unless I move the lever past the stop not a biggie so what is the next step?
 
Okay I replaced the cover plate and now the arms came up instantly took me by surprise, they don’t seem to go all the way down unless I move the lever past the stop not a biggie so what is the next step?
Well, it certainly seems that the cylinder check valve was the blockage point. Hard to say why........the spring wire diameter looks larger on old check valve, suggesting that it is a stronger spring, but I'm not sure, since wire material may differ. If you leave the ball out, as it is now, I believe the lift will leak down when engine shut off, with a load hanging on 3 point. It may try to leak down and then correct itself followed by leak, rise, leak, rise, etc. that some call 'bobbing". What is in there now, the old or new? Can you hang a few hundred pounds on it to see if it can lift the load?
 
Definitely makings headway it’s the old relief valve that’s installed without the ball, should I install the plastic one even though it’s not completely round ?
Right now I’m not able to use anything for weight everything is out in the yard and it’s been raining snowing you name it
 
I wouldn't install the deformed plastic ball, myself. If it leaks down as is, it likely would leak down with that bad plastic. I just can't see what the cause is. You earlier said springs not same length, but what matters is A and B are equal, so I don't see answer there. Can you compress the spring/plunger ok on the new valve? I don't suppose the cyl over pressure was passing fluid or else you would have seen fluid dripping/running down from top cover and cylinder?
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Isn’t it amazing that was the issue unbelievable and without your help and knowledge I wouldn’t have even thought of that, I really appreciate your help.
Anyway I was able to put a couple hundred pounds on the lifting arms raised it and I didn’t see any bobbing but I’ll leave it overnight and see if it drops. So should I say it’s done and leave it as is or do you have any suggestions?
 
Isn’t it amazing that was the issue unbelievable and without your help and knowledge I wouldn’t have even thought of that, I really appreciate your help.
Anyway I was able to put a couple hundred pounds on the lifting arms raised it and I didn’t see any bobbing but I’ll leave it overnight and see if it drops. So should I say it’s done and leave it as is or do you have any suggestions?
If it works to suit you, I guess leave well enough alone. Me, I still have the unanswered question as to exactly what/why in that cyl relief/check valve was not right, even though, now we do know that it was responsible for the blockage. Aren't you glad you kept on plugging? Probably saved unimaginable $ that a shop would have charged you! Probably would have been so much that you probably would have said, "just keep the tractor"..........................Oh, you never did tell me how you got the test port hex plug out?
 
Yes I’m glad I kept plugging away at it, even though I was getting frustrated with it. I’ll probably just go ahead and button everything back together, as long as the arms stay up.
To get the test port plug out, I used a 1/2 inch drill bit to ream it out, and then used a nipple extractor and a 2’ breaker bar that sucker was tight! Again thank you for everything, I wouldn’t have figured it out on my own
 
Yes I’m glad I kept plugging away at it, even though I was getting frustrated with it. I’ll probably just go ahead and button everything back together, as long as the arms stay up.
To get the test port plug out, I used a 1/2 inch drill bit to ream it out, and then used a nipple extractor and a 2’ breaker bar that sucker was tight! Again thank you for everything, I wouldn’t have figured it out on my own
You are welcome! Glad to share the knowledge. The "seemingly" stuck open over pressure relief valve might have been drillings between ball and seat....hope not. Tight, yes, 72 years will do that.

Bye the way , what part of world are you in?
 

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