1965 Ford 3000 Diesel Won't Start

[FT3]

The tractor has been sitting idle for a few years. Ran great before sitting up. Put a new battery in it and tried to start it, but nothing.

Jumped the solenoid/starter with a screwdriver and it turned over fine.

I can't read any voltage on my multi-meter on the small wire that comes from the ignition to the solenoid when the ignition is turned to start.

Replaced the ignition switch hoping for the best. Still nothing. Can't read any voltage on any of the connectors on the ignition switch when ignition turned to starting position.

I really don't understand how it is all supposed to work. Can anyone suggest a process to figure out the issue please?

Thanks!

 

[Eman85]

Stop hoping and replacing parts. Is there power at the ignition starter switch? If there's no power to it nothing is going to come out of it. Voltage comes to the switch and out of it when you turn the key. Then it goes through the neutral switch and on to the starter solenoid small wire.
Don't throw the old starter switch away, it's probably better than the one you bought.

 

[FT3]

Thank you for helping me.

I can’t get any voltage reading on my meter on any of the connections on the ignition switch when turned to the start position.

 

[Eman85]

Should have 1 terminal that has voltage at all times.

 

[FT3]

I checked each terminal several times and couldn’t read any. Any suggestion as to what to try next?

 

[Bern]

I checked each terminal several times and couldn’t read any. Any suggestion as to what to try next?

Check both "B" terminals on the voltage regulator for a good connection.

 

[FT3]

Thank you, will do.

 

[FT3]

All the connections to the voltage regulator looked fine.

Do you have any other ideas of things to try?

 

[Sean in PA]

Measure the voltage at the B terminal on the VR. If that reads 12.3 to 12.6 volts, and there is no voltage at any of the terminals on the key switch, then the wire from the B terminal on the VR to the key switch is bad or is not connected properly. If the B terminal on the VR has no voltage, then the wire from the solenoid to the B terminal is bad or is not connected properly.

 

[FT3]

Thank you for your help! It’ll probably be Saturday before I can get to it, but that’s what I’ll try next.

 

[Texasmark]

Pull out the instrument panel....4 screws....and look in the area behind it, on the wires of the wiring harness. Somewhere in there is a fuse. Check to see if its blown. If a series connection, the fuse case separates after 1/4 turn CCW. The amperage of the fuse is stamped on the metal cap....probably 20 amperes and auto parts stores carries fuses. Take the fuse with you to the store to ensure you get the same length case and the correct amperage.

If no fuse there, unscrew the shield (4 screws) on the vertical panel between the transmission sticks and the the area forward. Look up in there for a fuse if not where I mentioned first. There IS a fuse.

Next check the condition of the wiring.....rats had a field day?????

 

[JMOR]

Pull out the instrument panel....4 screws....and look in the area behind it, on the wires of the wiring harness. Somewhere in there is a fuse. Check to see if its blown. If a series connection, the fuse case separates after 1/4 turn CCW. The amperage of the fuse is stamped on the metal cap....probably 20 amperes and auto parts stores carries fuses. Take the fuse with you to the store to ensure you get the same length case and the correct amperage.

If no fuse there, unscrew the shield (4 screws) on the vertical panel between the transmission sticks and the the area forward. Look up in there for a fuse if not where I mentioned first. There IS a fuse.

Next check the condition of the wiring.....rats had a field day?????

Best I can tell from my diagrams is that the fuse(s) only relate to instruments and lighting and are not involved in start & run. What think?

 

[FT3]

Pull out the instrument panel....4 screws....and look in the area behind it, on the wires of the wiring harness. Somewhere in there is a fuse. Check to see if its blown. If a series connection, the fuse case separates after 1/4 turn CCW. The amperage of the fuse is stamped on the metal cap....probably 20 amperes and auto parts stores carries fuses. Take the fuse with you to the store to ensure you get the same length case and the correct amperage.

If no fuse there, unscrew the shield (4 screws) on the vertical panel between the transmission sticks and the the area forward. Look up in there for a fuse if not where I mentioned first. There IS a fuse.

Next check the condition of the wiring.....rats had a field day?????

Thank you!

I did find a fuse Saturday in the wires behind the instrument panel when working on it, but it appeared to be fine.

Wiring looks great to me. I’ll look more closely Saturday, but I saw no evidence of rodent activity.

 

[Sean in PA]

That fuse does not affect the starter circuit, only the instrument cluster.

 

[FT3]

Ok, thanks!

 

[shaun wallace]

Was the tin below steering wheel removed? There is 2 wires that can be plugged together, bypasses safety switch in trans, If safety switch is bad it wont crank.

 

[Sean in PA]

Was the tin below steering wheel removed? There is 2 wires that can be plugged together, bypasses safety switch in trans, If safety switch is bad it wont crank.

He said that he's not getting any voltage to the key switch.

 

[FT3]

Yes, the tin below the steering wheel has been removed…after it wouldn’t start in an effort to try to figure out why.

 

[Steve in IL]

I fought forever on a ‘73 Ford 4000 SU. Similar issues. Ended up being just the lack of a clean & tight connection at the frame end of the battery ground cable. Check both ends of the main battery connections first!

 

[FT3]

Man...wouldn't that be great! Thank you, will do Saturday when I can work on it again.