2018 - Massey Ferguson 2705E - Signal issues with cheaply made but costly replace lights

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I looked through there on line catalog. I'm not seeing a simple fix. The tail lights are mounted to the roll bar and are plastic $160 a piece lights. They Suck!! not designed well and every time I go by a tree branch they break! The 2 wide metal portector they - Massey Ferguson - sells you to protect the light(s) does not fit because of the welds for the roll cage. Poor - not thought through design. So I cut those down to fit and then try to bold the ""Plastic"" lights back on and they break Again. - Not happy with Massey Ferguson's Designs - for a $40,000 tractor you would think they had thought this through - Nope.

Does anyone sell a base with a long screw that can go through a roll cage, and mount a light - hopefully metal so it doesn't break easy - I need a Running and turn signal only.
 
I looked through there on line catalog. I'm not seeing a simple fix. The tail lights are mounted to the roll bar and are plastic $160 a piece lights. They Suck!! not designed well and every time I go by a tree branch they break! The 2 wide metal portector they - Massey Ferguson - sells you to protect the light(s) does not fit because of the welds for the roll cage. Poor - not thought through design. So I cut those down to fit and then try to bold the ""Plastic"" lights back on and they break Again. - Not happy with Massey Ferguson's Designs - for a $40,000 tractor you would think they had thought this through - Nope.

Does anyone sell a base with a long screw that can go through a roll cage, and mount a light - hopefully metal so it doesn't break easy - I need a Running and turn signal only.
Would guards around the lights be a better solution than sturdier lights, like the wire mesh and expanded metal guards used on construction equipment lights and orchard tractors. If MF does not sell parts for orchard tractors, you will probably need to fabricate your own guards or have some built for you.
 
Back in the day when I was cutting pulpwood we mounted the rear lights inside an old generator casing to protect them.
 
The sealed tail light from semi's can be had with a steel frame around the rubber grommet to hold them .This will do 2 things,1 hold the light and let it pop out if hit 2 steel holder can be bolted how ever you like for it. They can even be had with a full rubber grommet to cover the backside to keep water off the plug if the hole is in the down position. That was designed for trailer and trucks with the lights right behind the wheels and getting all the slop from the tires. Take a look at Grote lights online and see what size and shape you want from 4.5 round to a 2x4 shaped lens all had with the steel frame to hold them. They also have bases for some lights that can be mounted and the light just plugs into them with w snap latch type of securement. I don't use those cheap lights with the 5711 bulb in them .They are a cheap plastic housing that does not stand up to any use and never to any abuse like the tree limbs brushing them.
 
If your lights are mounted like the ones in this picture, move them to the inside of the roll bar. They appear to be through bolted to the bar. Move the left one to the right inside and the right to the left inside. It might require a shim or two and getting some longer bolts, or all thread rod at a hardware store but that will greatly reduce what can hit and break them.

8506-td4-b01-ext270.jpg
 
Yes. What you see above is what I have. I tried the shimming them before to use the massey Ferguson extensions "Protectors" to the lights - that is another part of the problem because as you can see in the photo the mounting area through the holes will not fit flush because of the welded roll cage. I may be able to save the one cracked light on the right but super glue definately will not hold it together - like I said a very poor - not thought threw design.
 
Yes. What you see above is what I have. I tried the shimming them before to use the massey Ferguson extensions "Protectors" to the lights - that is another part of the problem because as you can see in the photo the mounting area through the holes will not fit flush because of the welded roll cage. I may be able to save the one cracked light on the right but super glue definately will not hold it together - like I said a very poor - not thought threw design.
I doubt you are going to find anything that sets prefect in that area and uses the same mount holes. If the welded area doesn't let them set flat, use some shims or fab a small mount to go between the bar and the lights to clear the welded areas and use longer bolts in the existing holes. Same thoughts if you want to put guards around them. If you don't have the skills or tooling to build something, find a fab shop and have them do it.

Other than it has those lights on it, are you operating on the highway/street where you might be required to have them? If not, and I was breaking the lights during normal use on my property, I would remove them and set them aside until needed.
 
This is what a light looks like after trying to re assemble.
There so flimsy they cracked when I tried to re assemble.

I live in a semi rural area. I need to take the tractor on the road for a few blocks every now and then to move tree's.
 

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What I need is a smaller light fixture I can use in this ones place. One bolt through that I can re wire to the running - turn signals.
Then I will probably place them on the inside like commented above.

I'm not paying $160+ again for this type of junk.
 
This is what a light looks like after trying to re assemble.
There so flimsy they cracked when I tried to re assemble.

I live in a semi rural area. I need to take the tractor on the road for a few blocks every now and then to move tree's.
A 2-inch-long piece of 2" x 4" rectangle tubing will make a spacer to go between the light and roll bar. Drill holes to match the light mount bolts in one four-inch side and holes to match the roll bar holes on the other side, offsetting them vertically from the light mount holes as needed to move the spacer away from the weldment.
 
What I need is a smaller light fixture I can use in this ones place. One bolt through that I can re wire to the running - turn signals.
Then I will probably place them on the inside like commented above.

I'm not paying $160+ again for this type of junk.
You are likely going to have to build mounts for different lights, I doubt you will find any with studs long enough to go through the roll bar.
 
Thanks for the advise Jim. I will say that I've replaced 2 on the right side and one on the left side costing $460 for a tractor less than 10 years old.
I'm not going to keep spending this kind of $$$ on Lights that are very high priced and very very weekly built. I need an alternative - stronger light - I will place on the inside of the cage. I see the responses above form everyone - I will look there.
Eric
 
Yep your right Grote.com doesn't have anything with a shank that long. A fender mount would work on the right side but not the left - the triangle farm equipment sign is in that area. plus a fender mount has no protection also. They sure didn't design this with any thought before hand.
 
It's not a flat surface. The welded part of the box would also need to be shimmed up to fit semi flush with the roll bar welds.
 
These may work, then All I would need to do is cut or weld the top corners to fit around the welds for the roll bar. Then re wire some standard lights instead of the costly ones Massey Ferguson uses.
 

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I looked through there on line catalog. I'm not seeing a simple fix. The tail lights are mounted to the roll bar and are plastic $160 a piece lights. They Suck!! not designed well and every time I go by a tree branch they break! The 2 wide metal portector they - Massey Ferguson - sells you to protect the light(s) does not fit because of the welds for the roll cage. Poor - not thought through design. So I cut those down to fit and then try to bold the ""Plastic"" lights back on and they break Again. - Not happy with Massey Ferguson's Designs - for a $40,000 tractor you would think they had thought this through - Nope.

Does anyone sell a base with a long screw that can go through a roll cage, and mount a light - hopefully metal so it doesn't break easy - I need a Running and turn signal only.
Try searching for brush guards:


 
Hello Folks,
Been cooler this week so I spent the day on the tractor yesterday. Tools needed: 3/4 drill bit, don't loose the shims for the protective brackets - I used two large nuts to make up one shim but it worked: I used regular battery caps ""Positive"" caps to fill the 3/4 holes on the opposite outide location ""White Arrow"" - I used the original hole to guide the 3/4 bit - started the hole then stepped up the bits to cut the hole.

This comment by Jim was in correct:

1725304816528.png


The lights must be turned upside down - in the picture above, the light - orange - will be on top but on the same side. """Reason""" the harness is dedicated to each sides light - in otherwords the four wires are different side to side, so use same light - same side.

Light_Inside_Rollbar.jpg


Battery_Caps_Plugs.jpg



I used a string to pull the light cord through the frame:

Plug-Pull-Through.jpg



No problems except I stripped one of these cheaply made light wires - Green wire - and had to fix with solder and hopefully tape will hold a while.

These lights are really cheaply made for $160 a piece.

If I have to replace I will go aftermarket.


Best,
Eric
 

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