2606 carb doesn't fit right

[bc]

Update. Hello guys. Been cranking on this dude the last couple days and no start yet. Went through the wiring, replaced all the terminal ends, got a new four wire key switch with key start, and once I figured out the alternator wire going to one side of the ammeter should be by itself then it all fell into place. Pulled an old battery out of the pickup and it didn't have enough to crank it very long. Bot a new battery last night and cranked on it and it was smoking by the solenoid. Changed out the positive battery cable and the next one was getting hot and smoking too. Cleaned up the terminal on the original one and it worked ok without getting to hot or smoking.

Added another battery with jumper cables and cranked away. It would try to fire. Played around with moving the distributor to adjust the timing and didn't help much. Checked the wiring and firing order and points. I have two inline spark plug test lights and I'm getting spark to the distributor and spark to the plugs. It is hard cranking and cranks like the timing is a little retarded but a couple times it took off like it was going to start.

Pulled the needle valve out of the carb and got good flow. Tried it at 3 turns out and 4 turns out with no effect and left it at 3 turns open. May end up pulling the carb and checking it out.

Looked at the book and realized there was no spring on the governor. Must have gotten lost in the shuffle somewhere. Is this spring a particular caseih part or will one work from TSC or Ace? I've looked around and don't see a spring anywhere. There is a pic up above of the governor and I'm not sure where the spring go. Thanks.

 

[Janicholson]

Update. Hello guys. Been cranking on this dude the last couple days and no start yet. Went through the wiring, replaced all the terminal ends, got a new four wire key switch with key start, and once I figured out the alternator wire going to one side of the ammeter should be by itself then it all fell into place. Pulled an old battery out of the pickup and it didn't have enough to crank it very long. Bot a new battery last night and cranked on it and it was smoking by the solenoid. Changed out the positive battery cable and the next one was getting hot and smoking too. Cleaned up the terminal on the original one and it worked ok without getting to hot or smoking.

Added another battery with jumper cables and cranked away. It would try to fire. Played around with moving the distributor to adjust the timing and didn't help much. Checked the wiring and firing order and points. I have two inline spark plug test lights and I'm getting spark to the distributor and spark to the plugs. It is hard cranking and cranks like the timing is a little retarded but a couple times it took off like it was going to start.

Pulled the needle valve out of the carb and got good flow. Tried it at 3 turns out and 4 turns out with no effect and left it at 3 turns open. May end up pulling the carb and checking it out.

Looked at the book and realized there was no spring on the governor. Must have gotten lost in the shuffle somewhere. Is this spring a particular caseih part or will one work from TSC or Ace? I've looked around and don't see a spring anywhere. There is a pic up above of the governor and I'm not sure where the spring go. Thanks.

It is special in that it is designed to control the rpm to spec. if different, it could under perform or run out of control. Use an original. Some simple thing is still incorrect in the ignition side of things. Assure the centrifugal advance is working. Assure the distributor shaft is not worn (.001 is max side to side up to down. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Update. Hello guys. Been cranking on this dude the last couple days and no start yet. Went through the wiring, replaced all the terminal ends, got a new four wire key switch with key start, and once I figured out the alternator wire going to one side of the ammeter should be by itself then it all fell into place. Pulled an old battery out of the pickup and it didn't have enough to crank it very long. Bot a new battery last night and cranked on it and it was smoking by the solenoid. Changed out the positive battery cable and the next one was getting hot and smoking too. Cleaned up the terminal on the original one and it worked ok without getting to hot or smoking.

Added another battery with jumper cables and cranked away. It would try to fire. Played around with moving the distributor to adjust the timing and didn't help much. Checked the wiring and firing order and points. I have two inline spark plug test lights and I'm getting spark to the distributor and spark to the plugs. It is hard cranking and cranks like the timing is a little retarded but a couple times it took off like it was going to start.

Pulled the needle valve out of the carb and got good flow. Tried it at 3 turns out and 4 turns out with no effect and left it at 3 turns open. May end up pulling the carb and checking it out.

Looked at the book and realized there was no spring on the governor. Must have gotten lost in the shuffle somewhere. Is this spring a particular caseih part or will one work from TSC or Ace? I've looked around and don't see a spring anywhere. There is a pic up above of the governor and I'm not sure where the spring go. Thanks.

No. 5 in the this link. Buy one from CaseIH or search the number for options. CNHI IH 2606 gov. parts diagram

 

[bc]

I called and the spring is a 384588R1 which is common to a bunch of engines. $35 and a few days to deliver from Lebanon, MO warehouse.

While waiting I tried to start it again. Tried it with various throttle, choke, and distributor settings. It would smoke out the stack but no firing anymore to where it would speed up and almost start. Pulled a plug and it was clean and right gap at .23 (Autolite 386). Opened up the carb and it was clean like a rebuilt one should look like. Float when hanging measures from the flat where the gasket would sit at 1 1/16" to the top and 2 3/16" to the bottom of the float. Tried different bowl needle valve openings at 3 turns out, 4 turns out, and finally 2 turns out. I would have gas running out the throat after cranking but the float needle doesn't let it leak overnight. Yesterday I have a good flow when taking out the bowl needle valve. Last time today when I cranked on it with 2 turns open it backfired out the carb when I stopped cranking and it caught on fire. That was no good. Guess I better find the fire extinguisher. Yesterday I tried a shot or two of starting fluid and it would momentarily fire but I quit using it. Also it is cranking easier so the engine is loosing up a little.

I opened the distributor and looked at the points. Everything seems to be in order. Not sure I'm ready to pull the distributor out and take it apart yet until I learn what is involved.

One question I have is if I am turning the distributor clockwise, is that advancing or retarding the spark?

I'll see what you have to say yet but tomorrow I will get #1 back to TDC and check the wiring again. When I started this process it was reading 2 or 3 degrees off with # 1 at TDC as left by the engine rebuilder. Thanks for any help.

 

[used red MN]

Turning the distributor housing the opposite way the rotor turns is advancing the timing, turning the same way it turns is retarding it. When your rechecking the timing hopefully you’re aware of this. On a 4 stroke engine the number 1 piston comes to top dead center twice during those 4 strokes? Once at the top of the compression stroke and again at the top of the exhaust stroke. So in other words if you just lined up the timing marks and threw the distributor in you have a 50/50 chance of it being correct. To do it correctly you need to have the #1 spark plug out and feel for compression. When you feel that then continue to turn the crank until the TDC marks line up. Then place your distributor in with the rotor pointing to the terminal 1 in the cap for the plug wire of the front cylinder.

 

[wore out]

Update. Hello guys. Been cranking on this dude the last couple days and no start yet. Went through the wiring, replaced all the terminal ends, got a new four wire key switch with key start, and once I figured out the alternator wire going to one side of the ammeter should be by itself then it all fell into place. Pulled an old battery out of the pickup and it didn't have enough to crank it very long. Bot a new battery last night and cranked on it and it was smoking by the solenoid. Changed out the positive battery cable and the next one was getting hot and smoking too. Cleaned up the terminal on the original one and it worked ok without getting to hot or smoking.

Added another battery with jumper cables and cranked away. It would try to fire. Played around with moving the distributor to adjust the timing and didn't help much. Checked the wiring and firing order and points. I have two inline spark plug test lights and I'm getting spark to the distributor and spark to the plugs. It is hard cranking and cranks like the timing is a little retarded but a couple times it took off like it was going to start.

Pulled the needle valve out of the carb and got good flow. Tried it at 3 turns out and 4 turns out with no effect and left it at 3 turns open. May end up pulling the carb and checking it out.

Looked at the book and realized there was no spring on the governor. Must have gotten lost in the shuffle somewhere. Is this spring a particular caseih part or will one work from TSC or Ace? I've looked around and don't see a spring anywhere. There is a pic up above of the governor and I'm not sure where the spring go. Thanks.

''I figured out the alternator wire going to one side of the ammeter should be by itself then it all fell into place.''

This won't help with your no start" issue, but the wire from the battery that originates at the starter solenoid goes on one post of the Ammeter and the output of the alternator and ALL electrical loads go to the other post.

 

[bc]

the wire from the battery that originates at the starter solenoid goes on one post of the Ammeter and the output of the alternator and ALL electrical loads go to the other post.

That is how I had it wired before with the alternator output and other loads on one side with the battery on the other by itself and it worked. Not sure why it didn't now. I'll watch when I get it running. I think if the lights are on and not running/charging, then the ammeter should show a discharge. If the alternator is working then it should show positive amps. I had added a voltmeter to keep better track. I do understand why that old equipment using mags, generators, voltage regulators, etc. probably need to have the amperage watched so you don't cook something.

 

[bc]

I got close today. Pulled #1 plug, stuck a rag up there, when the rag blew out I had the compression stroke. Got #1 TDC when the breaker points were open and the numbering on the caseih dist cap was two holes off. According to the cap I had to put the #1 wire in the #3 hole of the cap and so on around. It has me wondering if the distributor is two teeth off? At least it would fire and almost start. Does it need to be pulled out and moved a couple teeth to the right?

Besides a governor spring, I need a new choke cable and clamp at the carb. I was trying to start it with one hand on the key switch and one hand covering the intake while holding the governor throttle rod open.

I left the timing with the points opening on #1 at TDC. Turning the distributor clockwise would advance it if that is what is needed as well. I also opened up the carb needle valve to 5 full turns to make sure it is getting gas.

 

[Janicholson]

I got close today. Pulled #1 plug, stuck a rag up there, when the rag blew out I had the compression stroke. Got #1 TDC when the breaker points were open and the numbering on the caseih dist cap was two holes off. According to the cap I had to put the #1 wire in the #3 hole of the cap and so on around. It has me wondering if the distributor is two teeth off? At least it would fire and almost start. Does it need to be pulled out and moved a couple teeth to the right?

Besides a governor spring, I need a new choke cable and clamp at the carb. I was trying to start it with one hand on the key switch and one hand covering the intake while holding the governor throttle rod open.

I left the timing with the points opening on #1 at TDC. Turning the distributor clockwise would advance it if that is what is needed as well. I also opened up the carb needle valve to 5 full turns to make sure it is getting gas.

If you put the Timing pointer on the correct TDC mark the points should not be open, they should be just at the point of opening. If they were open (as you stated) they were opening too soon. A test light attached to the distributor lead pass through bolt from the coil will light just as the pointer reaches the Mark. Be sure you see the correct TDC mark, it is not the first mark in rotation. Jim

 

[bc]

Thanks Jim. Guess I haven't got to the point of pulling out the test light and dwell meter yet. Just trying to get close. Stuck a screwdriver in the plug hole and the piston is there. I suppose it could be a quarter or half an inch before or after TDC. What I did was turn the distributor to the spot where points were open and tightened it down. If I need to rotate it a little one way or the other I can. If I had a helper or a remote starter switch then I could try a light. I thought you use the timing light when you have it running.

What I don't know is if I need to pull the distributor and turn it a couple teeth. Was reading a post on another thread which mentioned that you can't move a distributor a tooth but it only moves a full 180. Don't know what I have here. My old 57 chevy back in the day could be a tooth off as I recall.

 

[Janicholson]

Thanks Jim. Guess I haven't got to the point of pulling out the test light and dwell meter yet. Just trying to get close. Stuck a screwdriver in the plug hole and the piston is there. I suppose it could be a quarter or half an inch before or after TDC. What I did was turn the distributor to the spot where points were open and tightened it down. If I need to rotate it a little one way or the other I can. If I had a helper or a remote starter switch then I could try a light. I thought you use the timing light when you have it running.

What I don't know is if I need to pull the distributor and turn it a couple teeth. Was reading a post on another thread which mentioned that you can't move a distributor a tooth but it only moves a full 180. Don't know what I have here. My old 57 chevy back in the day could be a tooth off as I recall.

The drive housing in front of the distributor at the front cover has the gear in it that has teeth.
Normal position on Farmalls with horizontal IH distributors is that the Pass through stud and nut for the small wire to the coil is just about horizontal to the outside. The number 1 Plug wire terminal is at 1:30 (clock face) looking from the back. TIming lights are used when running, a test light (with a little bulb in the handle) are used for static timing. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Jim and OP, some of the explanation he has given is for the common older 4 cylinder tractors.
The 6 cylinder distributors come up out of the side of the block at an angle and drive off the cam/oil pump. Can’t you just crank the housing around more to get it in time? There is no vacuum advance off the side to stop it by hitting the block.

 

[bc]

Ok. Think I got it. My #1 on a vertical distributor is sitting at 11:00 on a clock and the distributor wire nut is sitting at a similar angle to the engine block. Rebuilder must have stuck it in wrong. If mine has the slanted gear teeth on the bottom when I pull the whole thing out this afternoon then I can just rotate it so #1 is around 1:30 and see if it starts.

Thanks.

 

[bc]

Jim and OP, some of the explanation he has given is for the common older 4 cylinder tractors.
The 6 cylinder distributors come up out of the side of the block at an angle and drive off the cam/oil pump. Can’t you just crank the housing around more to get it in time? There is no vacuum advance off the side to stop it by hitting the block.

That is what I will try doing this afternoon. It is a 6 cylinder. Thanks.

 

[wore out]

Ok. Think I got it. My #1 on a vertical distributor is sitting at 11:00 on a clock and the distributor wire nut is sitting at a similar angle to the engine block. Rebuilder must have stuck it in wrong. If mine has the slanted gear teeth on the bottom when I pull the whole thing out this afternoon then I can just rotate it so #1 is around 1:30 and see if it starts.

Thanks.

The distributor is driven by a "tang" on the oil pump shaft, so it can't easily be advanced or retarded a tooth or two.

 

[RedMVa]

The distributor is driven by a "tang" on the oil pump shaft, so it can't easily be advanced or retarded a tooth or two.

^^^this, to get it lined up “correctly” the oil pump has to be pulled and everything in proper place to make it all line up as numbers on cap. But you don’t need everything lined up , just #1 tdc compression and rotor with correct plug wire. More than half I work on never have everything lined up as in numbers on dist cap

 

[bc]

^^^this, to get it lined up “correctly” the oil pump has to be pulled and everything in proper place to make it all line up as numbers on cap. But you don’t need everything lined up , just #1 tdc compression and rotor with correct plug wire. More than half I work on never have everything lined up as in numbers on dist cap

Thanks everyone. So if I got this straight, this distributor basically has a slotted tang that only allows turning it 180 degrees at a time unless the oil pump is pulled to get at the gears.

So for my ballpark distributor setting then I believe I need to have it so the breaker points fire a hair "after" TDC and definitely not before TDC on #1. Or as Jim said have the distributor so the points are at the "point" of opening when on TDC.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

I'm thinking the distributor should be able to turn 360 degrees without removing it from the engine. You have to disconnect the power wire obviously but just loosen the hold down clamp and turn it wherever you want. The #1 post pointing toward #1 cylinder works, unless I'm mixing up my small block Chevy.

 

[bc]

I'm thinking the distributor should be able to turn 360 degrees without removing it from the engine. You have to disconnect the power wire obviously but just loosen the hold down clamp and turn it wherever you want. The #1 post pointing toward #1 cylinder works, unless I'm mixing up my small block Chevy.

I'm thinking the distributor should be able to turn 360 degrees without removing it from the engine. You have to disconnect the power wire obviously but just loosen the hold down clamp and turn it wherever you want. The #1 post pointing toward #1 cylinder works, unless I'm mixing up my small block Chevy.

The distributor body will rotate all around but the rotor stays in place.

I rechecked everything and found 1 rookie mistake. The 6 and 2 wires were switched. Somebody must have broke into the barn last night and switched them.

It's Alive!! It will run for 5 or 10 seconds and quit. Must be a fuel issue. Get full flow out of needle valve. Have it out about 5 turns but have tried more and less. When I opened it the other day the float hung down about 1 and a 1/16 inch. May have to pull it apart and blow it out while I'm waiting on the governor spring and choke cable bracket. The needle valve at the throat is out 1.5 turns. Waiting on a battery recharge now.

 

[bc]

Fired up and got it running for about 5 minutes. Had vice grips on the governor throttle lever and it was hard holding it. Ran it around 1800 rpm until I got tired of holding it. Wait on the spring now or else tie some baling wire to it.

Thanks guys.