3.152 Perkins Crank - OK or not?

JD: I looked at the sleeves and found some visual damage - most of the engine overhaul kits come with sleeves - so it looks like new sleeves. I also did a price comparison of machining the crank with oversized bearings vs getting a new crank and regular bearings. They are about the same - so I will get a kit with a new crank and bearings in it.

Here is the kicker about the engine: Tractor is a red MF35, engine is yellow - so not the original engine. The serial number of the engine is 152UA39523DSL. This number does not relate to an MF35's engine, I have been hitting walls trying it figure it out. I finally watched a video and found that this engine is probably out of an MF135 (maybe 35x) but I figured it out because the pistons are dished - meaning direct injection. And the serial number lines up with MF135s. Meaning it is an AD3.152. Still not exactly sure what the DSL in the serial number means. I know D=direct, and L=Lip but not sure about the S in the middle.

This is getting a bit more expensive than I wanted - but still cheaper than a new tractor.
At the end of the Day.......you may be better off with the engine being a Perkins AD3.152 or of some Variation of the AD3.152 as I believe there was a superior rear Crankshaft mechanical oil seal update.......:)
Also more Head studs assist in preventing head gasket failures........
 
I agree, this engine was off of a 135, not a 35. The serial number points at a 135 engine, like you said the head and pistons point towards a 135. So I will be buying an overhaul kit for a 135 engine, NOT a 35 engine. An AD3.152
 
JD: I looked at the sleeves and found some visual damage - most of the engine overhaul kits come with sleeves - so it looks like new sleeves. I also did a price comparison of machining the crank with oversized bearings vs getting a new crank and regular bearings. They are about the same - so I will get a kit with a new crank and bearings in it.

Here is the kicker about the engine: Tractor is a red MF35, engine is yellow - so not the original engine. The serial number of the engine is 152UA39523DSL. This number does not relate to an MF35's engine, I have been hitting walls trying it figure it out. I finally watched a video and found that this engine is probably out of an MF135 (maybe 35x) but I figured it out because the pistons are dished - meaning direct injection. And the serial number lines up with MF135s. Meaning it is an AD3.152. Still not exactly sure what the DSL in the serial number means. I know D=direct, and L=Lip but not sure about the S in the middle.

This is getting a bit more expensive than I wanted - but still cheaper than a new tractor.
sure its expensive, like more than the tractor is worth. now who are you going to trust putting this engine together with your expensive parts. ? i have done all that kind of work , but this is a coffee shop with all kinds of talk, from some that have never done that job. as ii could tell just by the comments. that is why i usually suggest a different used engine for beginners to change out,... way way cheaper. as i said before it is not a known thing to re-grind a crank on a diesel engine. gas no problem. all i am saying is you need a qualified mechanic to do this job.
 
I agree, this engine was off of a 135, not a 35. The serial number points at a 135 engine, like you said the head and pistons point towards a 135. So I will be buying an overhaul kit for a 135 engine, NOT a 35 engine. An AD3.152

Pre 1978 Engine Numbers:

Perkins pre 1978 Engine Numbers

This system consists of a maximum of 13 digits, this was used from 1966-1978.
Another numbering method was used prior to 1966, which utilized a digit number with no reference to engine series.

Your Engine Serial #152UA 39523 DSL
"U" Manufactured in the "UK"
"A" Manufactured for "MF"
Engine S# 39523
"D" Direct Fuel Injection
"L" Special Feature "Lip Seal".........Probably the REAR CRANKSHAFT oil seal
 
JD: I looked at the sleeves and found some visual damage - most of the engine overhaul kits come with sleeves - so it looks like new sleeves. I also did a price comparison of machining the crank with oversized bearings vs getting a new crank and regular bearings. They are about the same - so I will get a kit with a new crank and bearings in it.

Here is the kicker about the engine: Tractor is a red MF35, engine is yellow - so not the original engine. The serial number of the engine is 152UA39523DSL. This number does not relate to an MF35's engine, I have been hitting walls trying it figure it out. I finally watched a video and found that this engine is probably out of an MF135 (maybe 35x) but I figured it out because the pistons are dished - meaning direct injection. And the serial number lines up with MF135s. Meaning it is an AD3.152. Still not exactly sure what the DSL in the serial number means. I know D=direct, and L=Lip but not sure about the S in the middle.

This is getting a bit more expensive than I wanted - but still cheaper than a new tractor.

Pre 1978 Engine Numbers:


Perkins pre 1978 Engine Numbers


This system consists of a maximum of 13 digits, this was used from 1966-1978.
Another numbering method was used prior to 1966, which utilized a digit number with no reference to engine series.

Your Engine Serial #152UA 39523 DSL
"U" Manufactured in the "UK"
"A" Manufactured for "MF"
Engine S# 39523
"D" Direct Fuel Injection
"L" Special Feature "Lip Seal".........Probably the REAR CRANKSHAFT oil seal
 
Thanks JD, I had found the same thing online. Still not exactly sure what the "S" in DSL of the serial number means, maybe one of the blokes who stamped the serial number got bored one day?

This site has overhaul kits for this engine with a new crank for about $1100. Not sure what a used engine would cost but I bet with shipping will not be that much less (if any) and with this one I know what I am getting. And replacing the tractor will cost more than a couple of thousand. So, I will rebuild the engine with the kit, new crank and bearings. And if I need help, I have mechanic friends that can help if needed and I will make sure to have a repair manual handy.

Rustred: I can understand the value of "letting someone qualified" do the work, but if I took that philosophy in life then my Dad and thus me also would not be able to do a fraction of the things I am able to and have done. So, I am going to rebuild this engine, take it slow and do some research so I get it right.
 

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