3000 Ford diesel / fuel pump trouble.

56Jimmy

New User
Hey all. I’m brand new to this forum as of today.
I’ve been looking through some of the discussions about this tractor and it’s condition, and from what I’ve read so far it looks like my particular problem has already been discussed.
the 3000 diesel I have has been sitting for what I assume is a long time. I had no luck getting more info than the fuel tank and filter was replaced and I wouldn’t start. Don’t know how long ago.
I replaced the filter and inspected the inside of the tank. I have a good flow of fuel at the bleeder screw on pump, but absolutely nothing at any of the injectors or the lines at the pump to injectors.
I read a post that said the pump and area could be cleaned thoroughly then carefully raise top to free up a sticky metering valve.
Others on same thread advised against doing this.
I am not a certified mechanic or a pump rebuilder. Ian however very mechanically experienced and incline, for example I removed completely rebuilt and installed my 7.3 Ford diesel 2 years ago, doing great with 31,000 miles on it. I will spend the money to have this pump repaired or rebuilt if necessary. Just not sure it is time to do that. I would like some more opinions about opening the pump myself to free up this metering valve.
I of course realize that knowing nothing about this tractor this procedure may not solve my problem.
Seems to me that I really have nothing to loose. By my way of thinking If it doesn’t work the pump will need to come off and go to a pump shop anyway. Thank you all in advance for your opinions
 
If tractor has set a long time the pump rotor plungers MIGHT be stuck too, and looking at the metering valve would do no good. HOPEFULLY the pump head/rotor assembly is not sheared.
 
If tractor has set a long time the pump rotor plungers MIGHT be stuck too, and looking at the metering valve would do no good. HOPEFULLY the pump head/rotor assembly is not sheared.
Thanks for that Dieseltech like I said I do understand that a stuck metering valve might not be the problem or even the only problem. My question is, what do I have to loose by checking that before moving on to a significantly more expensive solution. And what are the chances I can do this without creating more problems
 
Hello 56Jimmy, welcome to YT! Although Dieseltech’s hunch is probably correct here is a post with a tutorial on checking that metering valve in a reply by my buddy & fellow member Ultradog. Thread with info Just FYI since you’re new here Dieseltech runs a pump repair shop in Indiana, many members ship their pumps to him for repair due to very reasonable costs and good workmanship.
 
Been there and done this many times. Do yourself a favor and pull the pump and send it out for repair. Sitting unused for long periods with todays fuels is a no no.
 
Thanks red MN. I read through that thread earlier and that was what gave me the idea to open it up and see for myself.
I had a long ugly experience with a local diesel repair shop. I knew the guy for 30 years and thought he was ok. His advice as well as his work turned out to be worth nothing. It’s the reason I rebuilt my 7.3 diesel myself. I would rather not take someone else’s word anymore.
I think I’m going to pull the lid and give it a try. If I screw it up I’ll just have to pay to have it fixed.
Thank you again for your help
 
Been there and done this many times. Do yourself a favor and pull the pump and send it out for repair. Sitting unused for long periods with todays fuels is a no no.
Old Ford Mechanic, thanks for chiming in. Sounds like you have done this more than once. Makes me think you could be a little too stubborn to give up the 1st time. That’s not intended to be an insult. I’ve heard it takes one to know one.
Anyway, I feel pretty sure you’re right, but I need to know that it wasn’t something simple. I have some trust issues these days.
Thank you again. I’ll probably end up letting you know in a few days that you were right but here we go.
 
Just want to add to my other post. Yes i have had several pumps that have seized from engines being unused over the years. Not only Ford tractors but. other brands as well. Fuel can have water, trash or other things that can contribute to problems with the pump. I have been able a few times ( a very few) to free up a metering valve but, usually the pump will still have more problems sooner or later. Most however have plunger trouble and need to be torn down and cleaned and repaired. That requires a trip to a qualified shop. I have discovered that letting the shop do the repair saves me and the customer time and headaches.
 
Old Ford Mechanic, thanks for chiming in. Sounds like you have done this more than once. Makes me think you could be a little too stubborn to give up the 1st time. That’s not intended to be an insult. I’ve heard it takes one to know one.
Anyway, I feel pretty sure you’re right, but I need to know that it wasn’t something simple. I have some trust issues these days.
Thank you again. I’ll probably end up letting you know in a few days that you were right but here we go.

It will cost you Nothing but your time to try freeing up the metering valve.
You might or might not ruin the gasket - I never have ruined one. Gasket costs about $6.
Metering valve might not be your problem and your pump still might not work afterwards
If you send it to a pump man it WILL cost you $800 +.
If you are even a Half Ast Mechanic it's worth a try.
 
It will cost you Nothing but your time to try freeing up the metering valve.
You might or might not ruin the gasket - I never have ruined one. Gasket costs about $6.
Metering valve might not be your problem and your pump still might not work afterwards
If you send it to a pump man it WILL cost you $800 +.
If you are even a Half Ast Mechanic it's worth a try.
Most I repair and calibrate are under 500 IF the head and cam ring are good..
 
The 3000 model used two different injection pumps that are completely different of each other
Some used a Simms inline pump
IMG_4380.jpeg


Others used the CAV rotary pump
IMG_4381.jpeg


Knowing which pump yours has determines what issues it may have and how it is removed and reinstalled on the engine
Timing procedures are very different for each pump
 
Most I repair and calibrate are under 500 IF the head and cam ring are good..
Can’t thank you all enough for your input. I’ve never owned a tractor until I bought this one. Don’t really need it but I thought the price was right and these projects keep me out of the bar and out of my wife’s hair. If the freight doesn’t choke me I might have to send this pump to Dieseltech after the holidays. I’ve already got a couple Christmas projects for my grandkids going so I’m probably going to have to wait till it’s REALLY cold before I work on this thing anymore. I will keep y’all posted on how it turns out. Thanks again to everyone for sharing your knowledge and experience.
 

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