4020 hydraulic oil in clutch housing

[Bg in mo]

I have a newer 4020 syncro split for a bad traction clutch. I knew it had hydraulic oil getting into the clutch housing but just assumed it was the o-rings on the actuator for the PTO clutch. Due to my lack of experience I did not remove the bottom cover and try to see where the oil was coming from before disassembly. The piston o-rings weren’t all chewed up but were a little stiff but now I’m wondering if the sea farther back is the culprit. Is there a way to see if that seal is leaking?
The traction clutch was dry but the PTO clutch had oil on it. The splines for the PTO disc the tube for throw out bearings were also wet.

 

[wore out]

I have a newer 4020 syncro split for a bad traction clutch. I knew it had hydraulic oil getting into the clutch housing but just assumed it was the o-rings on the actuator for the PTO clutch. Due to my lack of experience I did not remove the bottom cover and try to see where the oil was coming from before disassembly. The piston o-rings weren’t all chewed up but were a little stiff but now I’m wondering if the sea farther back is the culprit. Is there a way to see if that seal is leaking?
The traction clutch was dry but the PTO clutch had oil on it. The splines for the PTO disc the tube for throw out bearings were also wet.

Did you replace seal, Key #29 between the transmission and PTO shafts and note if there was any excess play due to bushing, Key #30 being worn excessively?

 

[Bg in mo]

I am going to replace that seal, I have the old seal off and the bushing felt pretty good. It is dry around that seal. I haven’t put it back together and proven that the pto pistons aren’t the problem but didn’t do enough research before taking it apart. I had assumed that everything that could cause hydraulic oil in the clutch housing would be accessible with a clutch split but I guess that’s not the case.

 

[wore out]

I am going to replace that seal, I have the old seal off and the bushing felt pretty good. It is dry around that seal. I haven’t put it back together and proven that the pto pistons aren’t the problem but didn’t do enough research before taking it apart. I had assumed that everything that could cause hydraulic oil in the clutch housing would be accessible with a clutch split but I guess that’s not the case.

There's a "packing" between the PTO clutch operating piston housing and the clutch housing, I doubt it's leaking but I'd replace it while the tractor is split. The rear PTO clutch shaft seal will require a "split" behind the clutch housing, IF it turns out to be leaking.

 

[Bg in mo]

Thanks for the replies, I’ll replace the packing also.
This is going to sound like a crazy question.
What if I replace everything I can get to with a clutch split, put it back together, and still have the leak I’m guessing it would about have to be the PTO seal then. So can I just split it at the back of the clutch housing or does it need to be split at the clutch housing also to change that seal?
I do have an actual John Deere shop manual coming for reassembly so I’m just using a I&T manual until it gets here.

 

[wore out]

Thanks for the replies, I’ll replace the packing also.
This is going to sound like a crazy question.
What if I replace everything I can get to with a clutch split, put it back together, and still have the leak I’m guessing it would about have to be the PTO seal then. So can I just split it at the back of the clutch housing or does it need to be split at the clutch housing also to change that seal?
I do have an actual John Deere shop manual coming for reassembly so I’m just using a I&T manual until it gets here.

With the tractor split farther rearward you can remove the two shafts to access the (miserably hidden) rear seal for the PTO shaft.

 

[grwrench]

hello,, i made up a tool to put that rear seal in from the clutch side..

 

[Bg in mo]

hello,, i made up a tool to put that rear seal in from the clutch side..

 

[Bg in mo]

I removed the support tube to where I can kind of see the seal now. Did you make a driver for installing the seal? How did you remove it? Guessing the clutch release fork and tube will fit through the hole? Thanks

 

[grwrench]

drill a 1/8 in. hole in the seal metal part, be careful not to let the drill bit scuff against the bore the seal fits in,, then use a drywall screw into the hole & pull the seal out..

 

[Fixingfarmer]

With the tractor split farther rearward you can remove the two shafts to access the (miserably hidden) rear seal for the PTO shaft.

I assume you would reseal both while in there.